Day 9 & 10: mooching around Mungo

It’s just magic here in Mungo, warm days, big sunrises and sunsets and utter peace. Loving it so much we decided to extend our stay to a third night.

After our first night of rain and flapping canvas we woke to absolute quiet. Unfortunately we were about 15 minutes late to catch the sunrise but lovely nonetheless.

We set off early to drive the 70km 4WD loop around the park- it was closed last time we came. It was a bit slow going in places but led us through the very varied landscape front m desert sands to red earth/saltbush plains and bore wells to mallee bush land. We stopped in the numerous picnic areas and did all the walks which are smattered with info boards giving great info on the local history, flora and fauna.

Today’s roadblock was this little bearded dragon, totally unperturbed by our presence.

Arrived back round 1.30 much dustier than we left and drove down to the Mungo Lodge (only no camping option in these parts) with promise of a coffee. Unfortunately coffee machine was on the blink and they we awaiting the repair- person and their chef was in a weekend off. so it was a quick sanga and ginger beer and then back to camp for our home brew (which we think is great but it’s possibly just that we’ve been on the road too long!).

At 4pm did the Chinese Wall sunset tour. This was a 2 hour walk around the incredible sandstone ‘wall’- which is actually a moving landscape – shifting 1 metre per year. The Elder who led the tour gave us great background on the park, the Aboriginal and colonial history- the latter of which including the introduction of rabbits and goats has pretty much decimated the environment. The Chinese wall gets its name from the Chinese workers who were put to work by the early settlers after having come to Australia  during the gold rush.

Of course the most momentous recent event is the return to country of Mungo Man and Mungo woman along with the remains of over 900 other Aboriginal people which have been held all over the world. The remains we buried just 9 months ago.

The pictures of the magic sunset don’t really do it justice. 

We also set the alarm and made it to sunrise over the plains.

Our morning walk through the saltbushes sped lots of little black tipped Roos – ver dainty and apparently one of three species of Roos here.

Lamb shanks on the open fire for dinner tonight

Day 8: To Mungo

Woke at 1 am to the sound of owls hooting- this bush camping sure is magic. Fell back to sleep until the bush alarm clock woke is at  round  6.30 and titis time we heeded their calls and got up for an early start. Having sussed out that  the local bakery also did coffee we opted to pack up and get breaky in town before heading north.

Balranald is a tiny town with a real community feel. The senior citizens hall is the most prominent building heralding an aging population I guess.  The  bakery seems like the morning meeting place- everyone very welcoming and friendly.

After a quick breakfast pastry and stocking up in the local IGA we headed off. 

just out of town came to a road block of a very different kind

The road was narrow tarmac for about half the way with lots of truck traffic, meaning we pulled over lots for oncoming vehicles. Once we turned off to Mungo it was red dirt and big skies most of the way- but roads looked recently graded so other than being a bit muddy  it was fairly good driving. 

Arrived in Mungo round midday wearing the red mud badge of honour.

Took a while to find and set up camp. It’s pretty windy today and spitting rain but about 26 so a bit humid.

Flies are relentless!!! Fly nets and Bushman’s are fully deployed and keep the flies  at bay (almost) – one of the few occasions where practicality supersedes style!.

Did a late afternoon walk to the lakes viewing platform – a very different view to last time with the recent rains covering the red dirt with low green foliage.

Decided not to light a fire tonight because of the wind so we are enjoying  a hearty spaghetti bolognaise for dinner.

Day 6 & 7: birthday chilling & north to Balranald

After a day doing all things touristy around Echuca and a pub lunch for the boy’s birthday we came back to our little camp, packed up all the gourmet goodies we’d purchased and read our books by the fire (or at least until the battery on my kindle went flat!). We were one of only two sets of campers on the farm last night so gloriously quiet overnight.

We woke early to the cacophony of kookaburras and enormous flocks of cockatoos, showered (you never know if/where you’ll find your next hot shower) and set off north towards Mungo National Park. First stop was less than an hour up the road at a quirky cafe that promised (like all bush cafes) the ’best’  pies. Not quite as good as the Harrietville pies inn our humble opinion but good nonetheless.

Took the Sturt  highway north stopping only for fuel in Swan Hill.

passed a controlled burn on the way through which was a bit disturbing – it was giving out a huge amount of heat.

So lovely to be under the wide open big blue sky again.

Used Wikkicamps to locate a free camp right on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River. It certainly lives up to its 4.5 star rating so far. Just one other couple camping here well round the bend, so it’s us and hoards of cockies. Flys are pretty tenacious but we have nets and aren’t afraid to use them and we know they’ll disappear in an hour or so.

We’ll do a one nighters here and head up to Mungo tomorrow.

As I type this we are just starting to get a few drops of rain. Cloud cover is light so hoping it will pass quickly – upside- it’s got rid of the flies!

Day 5: King’s Spur to Torrumbarry

Woke early to view the sunrise over our beautiful view and it was certainly worth getting up for. It would have given any outback sunrise a run for its money.

After taking in the magical colours for a short while we retreated back to bed to ward off the icy cold. Woke about an hour later to the cry of ‘rain’ from Rick. This got the camp moving and we managed a record time pack up before our canvas got too damp. So by 7.30 ish we were off  a bit hangry for want of  coffee and breakfast- it to be honest  it was me who needed the coffee most!

We headed down the long winding alpine road slowly making our way through the little towns. We managed to secure fabulous coffee and lamb and rosemary pies in the warm and dry of the Harrietville Bakery and were relieved to be able to fill up with fuel in Bright.

After a few very quiet off grid days bustling Bright and Myrtlefird  weee an absolute contrast.

After some rapid online booking we managed to book a station stay at Murray River Bush Camp. David and I have stayed here once before and even in the midst of school holidays it remains a peaceful oasis- and warm!  Excitement at many levels   1) temperature of 24 when we arrived meant we could strip off to short and T’s 2) we could at last have our campfire paella beautifully cooked by Bei 3) – and this should have been number one- we had our first real shower and flush toilets in  5 days!

Sitting here under a beautifully clear night sky unable to see an inch in front of us listening to cicadas singing.

High country Day 3 & 4

Day 3

Woke up to thick fog but thank goodness rain had passed .

Packed up the wet tent hoping like heck the bed would stay dry ( thankfully it did) and set off. First challenge was the steep road out of the camp ground- put David’s 4WD skills to the test- then a long drive up the old Dargo Road. 

The bush was shrouded in fog which made for an eerie (and slow) drive.  We arrived at King.s Spur purcamp ground mid afternoon.- as luck would have it, it was totally empty so we have this  huge green plateau all to ourselves.  

Fuelled with a lunch of hot cross buns and chocolate (which seems to have become our luncheon of choice this trip) we set off gathering firewood – we couldn’t stray too far afield because of the thick fog so spent a   lazy afternoon reading/playing Rummikub and yapping (it’s a tough life!).

 So here we are sitting  around a massive fire pit 1550 metres above sea level in a chilly 6 degrees eating piping hot beef borgignon   with potatoes fresh out of the fire and navigating the challenges of playing Monopoly Deal by firelight- a distinct advantage to those of us who are used to  navigating  the world without sight!

Now tucked  up in bed warm and snug with 2 layers of thermals beanies and socks!

Day 4

After a complete day in a pea souper we woke to a gorgeous sunrise and a completely clear but freezing morning. With the fog lifted we  were able to appreciate the true  beauty of our camp site.

Celebrated Easter with hot cross bun jaffles cooked on the open fire

An after-breakfast revealed an even more spectacular view just 50 metres down the track. And we couldn’t resist the opportunity to wake up to sunrise over this vista – so yes, we upped sticks and transplanted our camp (including firewood) the short distance up the road. Totally worth it!

We had a beautiful Bei-cooked beef rendeng for dinner around yet another roaring campfire. Life is perfect

High Country camping Day 1 & 2

Day 1

Grand parenting duties ended at 2.45pm and we put on our not-so-grey nomad gear and were on the road by 3.40. 

The first hour or so was spent on the M1 parking lot along with everyone else trying to flee the city but the last couple of hours went pretty smoothly. 

We reached Thompson Bridge Camp, a lovely little free camp just outside of Walhalla, at around  6.50  so not too shabby.

Managed to top up with fuel in Moe – 20c/l cheaper than we paid in Melb so, so far so good.

It’s a little. rowdy out there with lots of camp fire conversations but so nice to be back in the bush.

Our camping buddies had a great spot picked out and had managed to fend off hot competition. By the time we arrived  the camp fire was raging.

Day 2

Awoke to the bush roosters’ (kookaburras) morning call round 5.30 warm and toasty despite the fog and mist outside.

Set off after a (very) leisurely breakfast- after navigating the 300 point turn to get our camper out of the narrow camp spot  we’d driven in to so easily- will definitely be parking with easy exit in mind tonight.

Drove on to Dargo. Windy and steep- our car definitely felt the weight of the camper. After checking out a couple of camp spots we arrived at Italian Flats camp site. Quite a few people here but spaced out well and pretty peaceful.

Had light misty rain for most of the afternoon which we filled with a few raucous games of monopoly Deal.

Now full of hearty pasta dinner and tucked up in camper snug as bugs.

Three days in Port Fairy

Floorboards being re-surfaced and need to evacuate so dusted off Dora, attached the green machine  to the back and set off for a mini-break. First stop – Port Fairy. 

A beautiful little town with all that a historic seaside town has to offer- old cottages, long walks along breakwaters beautiful beaches and a rail trail. And fabulous coffee!

We m are staying  in a small caravan park about 2km out of PF- unusual for us to go parking but it’s almost empty so we get to enjoy the creature comforts (power and flush toilets) without the hubbub of too many fellow campers.  Mind you the newborn (sounding) on the other side of the campground has torn at our heart strings and made us miss our little man.

Day 1 was spent on the bike exploring the nooks and crannies and back streets/waters of PF. Weather was perfect for riding and where it got too sandy to ride we tied up the bike and walked.

Second day we had the best intentions to ride the rail trail to Koroit and on to tower hill- but woke up to a totally flat tyre and decided to drive instead. We were SOOOO glad we had- the hills into and out of the National park were ENORMOUS. I think if we’d ridden we would have to energy left to do the walks. Did two off the main walks- the pinnacle walk (quite a huff & puff but worth it for the views) and the circuit through the wetlands on board walks among the reeds. Both were beautiful.

After a mandatory stop in the Koroit tea rooms to re-fuel(Persian love cake for me and passion fruit sponge for David) we headed to Warnambool and waked the beach while the bike shop changed our tyre.

Now back at camp packing up – heading to Grampians tomorrow. 

Gaudi’s Barcelona

Spent our last day and a bit touring Gaudi’s buildings. Started with a Gaudí tour with Maria-Therese – the wonderful guide from our walking tour earlier in the week. She I has been a guide for almost 30 years and she and her family have been supporters of the Gaudi foundation.- her passion and knowledge made our visit especially meaningful.

We visited Sagrada Familia mid afternoon, The inside of the cathedral is now finished and being actively used. It was truly mesmerising with the afternoon light streaming through the orange stained glass windows casting rainbows over the roof and columns.

Second stop was Park Güell – the incredible landscaped garden originally designed to be a housing estate for the bourgeoise- but didn’t sell because gaudi’s designs were considered too ‘out there’.

And today we visited some of the Gaudi houses

Waiting in the hotel foyer for our ride to the airport. Ready to go home but hard to imagine how we will settle back into life’s routine after s this big adventure.

Montserrat by train

Today we took the train to Montserrat, a Benedictine monastery that sits right on top of an enormous Rocky Mountain (about 1100 metres high) about 100 or so km north of Barcelona .

Navigating the busy Barcelona metro (Placa España) with its multiple was the first challenge but eventually we all found each other in the bowels of the underground and got on the right train. We needed two trains to get there – first the metro to Montserrat and then the ‘rack train’ or fennicular which winds its way up the mountain to the monastery, the whole journey taking about 90 minutes.

Our first glimpse of the monastery from the rack railway

The Basilica itself is fairly austere inside and out, but it defy s imagination how they got the materials up here to build it – which would be a challenge even today with machinery and technology.

Took another (near vertical) funicular up to the very top of the mountain high above the monastery . We rode in the front with nothing but a pane of glass between us and eternity.

The silver ‘line’ up the mountain is the funicular track .

Decided to walk one of the mountain top walking trails which gave fabulous views, then realised it was easier to shinny the 40 minutes all the way down to the monastery than haul ourselves back up the hill to the funicular. Small steps and quads of steel got us there. Hats off to the few we passed walking all the way up – even one muscle bound jogger!

Got back down round 4 and the train was about to depart the platform so hot-tailed it rather than wait another hour for the next train and food. We arrived back in Barcelona round 6 absolutely starving – and very stiff from the long walk. Went to the closest tapas joint and sat salivating waiting for our first dishes to arrive.

Walking Barcelona

Four hour walking tour of Barcelona today with a n absolutely fabulous guide. Probably 10 or so years older than us, our guide has lived here all her life, studied history and fine art back in the day and has been running personalised tours since the late 90s. She provided such an interesting journey through the streets., filling us in on the political history, including the recent (2017) attempt to secede (spelling?) which is rearing its head again with upcoming elections in May.

We started with the Barcelona food market – she walked us through pointing out the best places for each food- telling us how she prepared/cooked it and different Spanish dishes.

From the markets we headed down La Rambler- through the flower markets- just opening for the day, and on to the gothic quarter, full of churches and narrow streets and multigenerational businesses.

Buildings had tiled murels
Nothing says it quite like a random cow sticking out of the bell tower of a cathederal

From the Gothic quarter we then moved into the ‘Born’ district – much more avant-guard -all about art and local artisans. In the little narrow side streets shops are only allowed to sell goods produced in Barcelona- many of the little stores had the artist in residence.

An entire hop dedicated to use of prophylactics! Translation: “Condoms- for the little pleasures in life”

Lunched in a ‘stick tapas’ restaurant- a bit like yum cha, where you select the food you want (each item has a tooth pock in it) then at the end they count the toothpicks to calculate the bill.

My first 2 ‘sticks’

After more sticks than we are prepared to admit we headed to Moco- the museum of contemporary arts then wandered down to the waterfront before meeting Rick, Bei and Rick’s family for yet another tapas feast.

This one was much smaller ‘in the flesh’ than I imagined
This walk in digital display was incredible – and a little disorienting.

Arrived back at the hotel 11 hours after we had left- absolutely exhausted having spent most of it on our feet.