Couldn’t believe how late we slept in today – talk about stop riding and go to the pack!! Woke up just before ten realising we had just 10 minutes to get down and eat before breakfast buffet closed. Used the foot in the door technique, fills our plates and sat there brazenly until they politely reminded us it was time to close – breakfasts here are too good to miss.

We were tourists today – did a bus tour to the main Bodo attraction Saltstraumen – the worlds largest maelstrom where opposing tides from two neighbouring fjords meet six hourly creating a whirlpool. Most spectacular is that the fish also get caught up in it, with schools leaping out of the water, attracting birds and fishermen alike.

Bodo , while a reasonably large regional town, is fairly unremarkable- architecture, all 1950/60 – as the city was bombed in WW2. Despite being the gateway to the north and the Lofoten, shops were minimal, but heaps of cafes and shoe shops (all selling very sensible shoes even on my standards).

Stopped briefly (or that was he intention) at the rail station to pick up our pre-booked tickets to Oslo for tomorrow- only to find our booking had been cancelled – or so the machine as telling us. A couple of hours on the phone navigating pre recorded prompts in Norwegian (you can imagine how well that went), we finally managed to secure said tickets (or an email clarifying that tickets will be issued) – needless to say we plan to get there early tomorrow. Train ticket $100AUD, phone call to clarify about ticket $50AUD!

Well we set off round 9 for our last cycle on Norwegian soil- a short 5km pedal to the ferry terminal at Moskenes where we boarded the car ferry to Bodo.

We had a few moments of uncertainty when our luggage carter still hadn’t arrived at 1020 with our bags for the 10.30 ferry – however he got there in the nick of time so we didn’t’ have to resort to a plan B (which is just as well as we didn’t have one). A balmy 19 degrees made it beautiful on deck,, so we sat out for the first half of the (4hour) journey, then came in for a nap.

In Bodo I got a cab to the hotel with the bags while David did a solo ride (blissfully peaceful I imagine) so he got to feel what it’s like when she’s really not pedalling on the back.

Had an early last dinner with a couple of our tour buddies before they set off, and then negotiated the acrobatic challenges of deconstructing our bike in a hotel room the size of a shoe box. Went more smoothly than we anticipated taking only 4 hours to clean her, take her apart, wrap her and pack her up.

Have now restored the room to some semblance of order and collapsed into bed. Day off here tomorrow- so looking forward to a sleep in.

Absolutely GLORIOUS weather today, David in t-shirt and me down to only two layers of Merino.
Based in Reine today which gave us a chance to do some washing and some in depth exploring of the local area. So nice to ride without the heavy panniers on the back!

Paused at the top of the hill to photograph the beautiful village of Reine in full sun before setting off on the relatively short 13 km pedal (push) to A. Lots of cute and well populated coastal villages along the way.

Visited the Stockfish museum, which was the most informative explanation of the Norwegian cod fishing industry we have seen- made us realise why there is so much hype about protecting the industry and why the Swedes kept telling us how wealthy the Nowegians are- the average Norwegian fisherman earns $30 per kilo for dried cod- they are raking it in.

Basked lazily in the sun on the pier at A for a couple of hours until David began to worry that if we didn’t head back he may never get me moving- legs a bit creaky after the long break but eventually got going.

Tomorrow our ride ends. Short pedal to the quay and then a four hour ferry ride to Bodo where we spend a couple of days before catching the train to Oslo. Would love to keep riding south from here- feels like we’ve only just scratched the surface.

So hard to leave our gorgeous little cottage today- we would have loved an extra day here. Fabulous breakfast buffet fortified us for the ride ahead (and then some). We set off feeling pretty nostalgic as today was our last long ride for the tour- so we were determined to leave no village unexplored. The weather smiled on us (cold but no rain).

As expected the ride out of Nusfjord was pretty much straight uphill, however there was an upside: 1) sensational views, and 2) we realised how climbing-fit we have become over the last few weeks.
Today’s journey was the most beautiful scenery for the trip so far – I know I say that nearly every day, but just when you think it can’t get more beautiful it does.

First stop was Flankstad, the home of the second oldest church in Lofoten, famous for its Russian influenced dome (related to something about stockfish trade). Also the site where I scared the begeebus out of the local priest ( but that story will have to be told offline).

Several km down the line in Ramberg we stopped in the small galleri of a local metal sculptor and ceramicist- his gallery was really a studio and workshop in his back garden with a beautiful rambling garden overlooking the beach – amazing to think the garden had been under snow just a few weeks ago. He was an eccentric old bird who not only told us his life story (including how he met the love of his life) but also personally walked us through the gallery and explained the meaning of every piece of work and how he had constructed it. Left there almost an hour later with no purchases but a warm fuzzy feeling that we had made his day- he certainly made ours.

Definitely stockfish territory today, all along the way we passed racks and racks of severed cod-fish heads and drying carcasses with that anchovy like smell we have become familiar with. A stunning if gruesome sight.

Lunch stop was in a cute (very Norwegian) little picnic ground in Fredvang – what we thought was going to be a small detour but ended up being over two enormous bridges.

Two long tunnels today- one (2km) we managed to avoid by taking an alternate route, but no such luck with the second one (a hefty 1.6km). Luckily it was downhill so we managed to move through it very fast- the noise is the hardest part of the tunnels, especially with heavy traffic.

Final stop in the (slightly kitsch) historical village of Sund- lets just say the 240NOK entry fee was our donation to the local Norwegian tourist trade-cake was good and well earned with all the hills we climbed today.

Arrived in Reine round 5.30 pretty tired- while the ride had been shorter than many (56km) it was definitely the most challenging climbing of any day so far. We have two nights in Reine- haven’t had a chance to explore yet but Lonely Planet tells us there is lots to do here, so will get up and out early.

No riding today- it was all about the sea and the scenery. Loaded our bike, bags and ourselves onto the bike ferry for the 45 minute ride to Nusfjord. Our bike didn’t fit on the gang plank (of course it didn’t), so I held my breath while David and two musclebound Norwegian ferry operators lifted it up and over without dropping it or the fully loaded panniers into the drink.

Nutsfjord is one of the oldest and best preserved cod fishing hamlets in Norway. Set around a tiny cove, the rock faces are lined with original fishing cabins (of which we are occupying one) which protrude over the water. Our cabin is to die for – large with original exposed rafters and cute little rooms each opening out onto a beautiful view- so quiet we can hear our blood circulating.

The village itself is surrounded by forest with snow capped rock faces looming. Not sure which way we cycle out tomorrow but rest assured it will be up hill- so glad to have a rest today.

Set off from Hov early with a long ride ahead. Threatening to rain we prepared for an arduous ride, however the damp cleared and only emerged occasionally throughout the day as did the head wind. Luckily the crowds from the Baltic Circle tour were sleeping in (recovering?), so traffic was light on the road out.

We largely hugged the coast today, island hopping (via bridge) between two islands. Very different terrain to the other islands- expanses of marsh land and some pasture – mostly occupied by sheep and horses. The vegetation was also much more ‘forest like’ with woods of fir trees – where vegetation on other islands has been mostly birches.

Traversed a couple so small, beautiful fjords (with challenging hills) -with camping grounds beginning to fill up- as the summer holidays start today.
Rain set in for a while round mid afternoon, so we hunkered down in a cafe at one of the camping grounds for an hour or so until it passed – drinking coffee and eating cake (as you can when you know you are going to be riding it off).

Last 15km was in beautiful sunshine, so we stripped off our layers and basked in it. The fjords transform when the sun shines on them.

Arrived at Ballstad late afternoon. Accommodation is in tiny little fisherman’s cabins right over the water. Very cute- feels like sleeping in a dolls house. So excited to se we have our very own bathroom!! Aaaaaahhh- it’s the little things in life……..

Left Hemmingavaer round 9.30 backtracking for the first 10 km – which was actually great because the weather was nice and we were able to enjoy the scenery that we misse din the rain yesterday. Lots to see along the way today.
First stop was a reflective sculpture by an American artist- a big reflective glass curve which mirrors the fjord and mountains behind- we thought it was fabulous, but the locals call it ‘the shower cabinet’.

Next stop was the old church at Gimsoysand- right on the banks of the fjord and guide to the ground to stop the strong winds from blowing it into the water. These little graveyards are very typical if this area with each village having their own small cemetery.

From there it was full steam ahead to Hov..
Traffic became heavy with literally scores of rally cars passing us on the road. We found out later they were from the Baltic Ciicle Midsummer Madness Tour- a group of about 300 petrol heads who drive round Germany, the Baltic and across Norway every summer- and they were all staying in the camping ground opposite our B&B. Very well behaved (or the double glazing in our room did the trick)- although I had a real treat when David and I walked on the beach and they were swimming butt naked ( in 11 degree water- I might add)

Hov is a little coastal town whose claim to fame is having the most furtherest north golf course in the world – where you can play golf under the midnight sun. We had a room in a little farmhouse on a local horse farm- they breed Icelandic horses- very cute, stocky and very rough coated little horses (ponies really).

Met our fellow travellers at dinner- there are 11 others biking the same route as us., so no doubt will get to know them better along the way.

Distance travelled: 35km
Distance travelled in sun: 6km
Distance travelled in everything but sun: 29km

Shorter ride today, a few hills but nothing too major, but quite challenging weather and much heavier traffic than we have seen so far- the Lofoten is a popular holiday spot so lots of tourists, vans and buses coming and going. We kept our heads down and pedalled like crazy as they whipped around us.

Some very pretty and interesting towns along the way. First stop was Kabelvag, a fishing village set around a beautiful cove- one of the oldest fishing villages of the region. Again, stock fish racks everywhere and beautiful old fishing huts and boats.

There was also a fabulous gallery in Kabelvag- after barging in they told us the gallery was closed as they were setting up for a new exhibition opening on Thursday- when they heard we were from Australia and not here Thursday they allowed us a personal viewing – with the artist. Really interesting work, very large black ink (on white) prints of giant ‘chops’ made by carving cross cut tree trunks (a bit like enormous potato prints)- really stunning, but would need a huge wall to hand them on. Again, left armed with his website.

Weather got pretty murky from here on in- heavy rain and a bit of hail, so we donned our visi-gear and made tracks for Henningavaer as fast as possible – which is pretty slow on the fully laden tandem.

Arrived soaked and muddy and very happy to check in to our little hostel. We have a tiny attic room – which is great as we have cranked our heater up full blast and left our wet clothes/shoes baking in our home made oven while we cosy up in the lounge waiting for dinner.

Henningavaer is a really beautiful little village- one young man proudly told us it is the most beautiful village in Norway and it certainly is for us so far. Well set up for visitors with many small shops sporting high quality local textiles and handcrafts- the best we have seen so far, and great to hang out in on a wet afternoon.

Soccer is now on in the lounge, Poland and the Ukrane are playing and the crowd is getting rowdier by the minute- roaring in the universal language of football crowds.

Just ordered dinner- both David and I are having pizza- the only thing on the menu that wasn’t whale- which even I couldn’t quite come at.

Enjoyed a day off the bike today exploring Svolvaer. Very pretty town that goes from being extremely quiet to bustling when the Hurtigruten comes into port.

We walked the town and (I think) saw all the main attractions.
Trawled through four small art galleries displaying paintings and ceramics by local artists and the local antique store- to David’s relief I didn’t see anything I ‘must have’.

We then visited the World war 2 museum- an amazing private collection of WW2 memorabilia collected by a local chap since 1948. Included uniforms and weaponry of every army/navy/airforce from all sides, photographs, medical/surgeons/dentist kits (EEK), various paintings/drawings and belongings of Hitler – but also similar from English generals etc. nothing Aussie that I could see. The owner himself is said to be a bit of a local icon, but unfortunately wasn’t there today.

Then it was off to Ice Magic- a tacky but fun (for about 5 minutes) ice sculpture museum, but actually more like an ice bar. Stayed long enough for s quick look and to down a Bourbon, but nothing to write home about.

Local area is beautiful- like most seaside towns over here lots of walking to be done. After a cloudy, damp day the sun finally came out early evening- by 9pm we had clear blue skies casting reflections over the glass like fjord.
Made the most of it with a late night walk through the fishing yards along the breakwater. Absolute magic!

Back on the bike tomorrow but only about 25-30k ahead of us, so we just need to make sure that we don’t continue to eat for 60!

Last day of the Arctic coast section of our ride today. Had a choice today – long 75k ride or shorter ride coupled with a ferry. Took the latter option, feeling slightly guilty at first, but so glad that we did. We started with the shorter,fairly flat 30k ride south to Stokmarknes where we boarded the Hurtigruten steamer for the 3 hour journey through the fjords to Svolver. A huge cruise ship carrying both tourist commuters and cruise passengers over 9 decks. Vey steady compared to the small car ferries we have been using.

Truly magnificent scenery -we rugged up and sat out on the top deck with peaks towering over us on either side.

Final dinner with our riding tour buddies tonight with us all heading off in different directions tomorrow.