We woke up early a bit creaky but pleased to see that our legs did move and our bottoms were only slightly tender from yesterday’s big ride. After a night of heavy rain we were lucky enough to wake up to light cloud and a slight mist but not enough to require rain gear. We had a hearty cooked breakfast and the best coffee of the trip so far at the Mingling Waters Cafe (attached to our holiday park) and hit the road, leaving our little cottage just shy of 9am.

The rail trail goes right through the heart of the town so no problems finding our starting point today. First photo op was crossing the bridge over Boggy Creek just out of town – more like a river than a creek tho’

The foliage was quite different today to yesterday’s rain forest. The undergrowth was dryer and more bracken than ferns. With some areas showing post-bushfire fuzz.

After the long night of rain much of the trail was slippery so after a couple of episodes of fish-tailing we ended up walking the bike down the bigger hills rather than risk coming off (note: that’s the royal ‘we’).

Closer to Orbost things flattened out and we started seeing more grassy farmland…….and of course the beautiful Snowy River.

After a quick look around Orbost which is a very pretty little town with many of the original buildings, we hitched a ride to Marlo. While the distance wasn’t far, it was along a major road with no shoulder and with the amount of caravan traffic we decided not to risk it.

Now sitting in our gorgeous little room in the Marlo Pub with the most amazing views – our home for the next two nights. Doing it tough!!!

After a fairly ‘interesting’ night last night we couldn’t wait to get up and out this morning. Having been too hesitant to look at TripAdviser reviews of our digs last night we did so over coffee in the local cafe this morning. Let’s just say we were very glad we’d taken the extra precaution of spraying ourselves with Rid before bed to ward off bed bugs – others hadn’t been quite so lucky. Ah well – it’s all part of the adventure!

Did the big climb our of Lakes – mostly on the bike but some hills did get the better of us.

Wound our way back to Log Crossing – our lunch spot from yesterday. Campers had moved in over night – absolutely sensational free camp (note to AJH & JAH – have marked it on the map for future reference).

From the crossing we decided to take the ‘alternate’ route back to the main rail trail. Our travel guide said this was an easier route. It’s amazing what a difference one minor wrong turn can make (I told him it was the other left). 20km later and one enormous climb and we were back where we started – so it was morning tea and lunch a Log Crossing.

After this false start we decided instead to re-trace our steps from yesterday. While it was a strenuous climb the bush was gorgeous – the light rain overnight made it very humid and the fern gully’s were absolutely filled with butterflies. The overcast sky (compared to yesterday’s sun) totally changed the colours.

We arrived in Nowa Nowa late arvo with pretty much nothing left in the tank. Staying in a cute little loggers cottage at the back of the caravan park with a very comfortable bed and I’m very pleased to say clean linen! Have bought a re-heat & eat lasagna, home made by the lady in the general store which looks yum (pub not open for weeknight dinners). So all is good in the world.

Just hoping our legs can still bend tomorrow……not showing much potential at the moment.

Distance travelled: map said 38, felt like 60. No cell reception for most of the trip so we were unable to GPS map exact distance

We left the Bruthen Hotel bright and early – hard to sleep in once a country pub awakes and also wanted to push through bathrooms etc before the morning rush. We stocked up with salad rolls, coffee and water at the local bakery and were off.

We started on the Gippsland Trail but then after a 10k long uphill slog branched off to head south for Lakes Entrance, expecting a gradual roll down to the coastt – after all the sea is always at the bottom of the hill isn’t it? Um…..not quite…..

The Discovery Trail is a disused tram line that once carried granite from the quarries south to the lakes area. Legend has it that the big clumps of granite along the trail were thrown overboard by the crew in an attempt to get speed up to make it to the pub at the other end before closing.

The trail was narrower than the rail trail and absolutely beautiful with towering gums draping long strings of bark forming an amazing canopy. It hugged the bank of the now dry Mississippi Creek with deep undergrowth of ferns – the rainforest smell transported me straight to Narby (as I’m sure my Hax clan members will understand).

We had our picnic lunch in a gorgeous picnic area – Log Crossing – where we met a lady who had driven from East of Bairnsdale to Lakes Entrance to sell her fresh fruit produce at the LE market not realising it was closed for the long weekend. We were the big beneficiaries and are now sporting a handful of crisp juicy Johnathon apples 🍎

The last 6 or so k into Lakes Entrance was less fun on shared local roads – as much uphill as down. Definitely not looking forward to the big climb out in the morning.

The entrance is bustling with long weekend holiday makers, boats, jet skis and bikes. Accomodation is thin on the ground here this weekend so we are staying in the LAST motel with a vacancy – 1970ish besser block style with I think original bedspread and a plumbing hammer that judders the teeth- so let’s just hope our neighbours don’t have a late night shower!

Set off quite late for us (round 10) with a hearty breakfast under our belts and a relatively short (36ish K) ride ahead of us. After a slight hiccup finding the entrance to the trail we were off.

First stop was 10k or so down the trail at the Nicholson General Store that claims to have the best pies in Australia….of course we had to put that to the test.

The trail was a fairly steady climb up to Bruthen – with some downhill bits, but the legs got quite a work out. The landscape went from dry and flat to rich and undulating as we got higher.

By far the highlights were the old derelict trestle bridges, still towering, which gave a sense of how magnificent the original track must have been.

Tunnels of giant corrugated iron pipes allowed us to ride under the main roads….

Arrived in Bruthen at a very respectable 3pm- in time for Devonshire tea at the Bruthen Tea Rooms – complete with plum jam and quince jelly to die for.

Now tucked up in our very modest room at the Bruthen Pub – having had early showers to beat our co-habitats to the shared bathrooms. The joint is filling up fast so we may be in for an interesting night. Menu looks like great pub food, served on a huge verandah with fab views. Our bike is in pride of place on the verandah (on instruction from publican) adding to the general quirky ambiance – and last seen was attracting some attention – so hopefully not being ridden round the veranda now we are out of sight. David is resisting the temptation to check on it hourly – he’d sooner leave me out there than the bike!

With a day to kill until our ride starts we headed off to Metung by road, stopping in all the little coves along the way. As we drove up endless steep gravel roads we were very glad that we had opted for the car instead of the bike.

First small stop was in Nungurner – quiet and picturesque but very isolated.

Slowly made our way round to Metung – much more developed but nonetheless still quite beautiful. Definitely had boat envy…

From Metung we headed north through Swan Reach following the Tambo Rover to Tambo Upper. Fabulous red cliffs reminiscent of the SA Murray

Distance travelled: 53km. Sore legs: 4

First post-lockdown long(ish) ride – dead flat & mild temperature – and it nearly killed us. My how the mighty have fallen! Let’s hope that there’s truth to the saying that ‘you get fit on the road’ or we’re in for a big week.

With 2 days in Bairnsdale to reunite with our bike legs we set off for Paynesville early. Rode along the Mitchell River the whole way- the first few kms was on the main highway, traffic was busy with school drop off but the shoulder was wide so pretty easy riding. 

About 8k out of Bairnsdale the highway split off and we rode down a mix of quiet back roads and gravel walking trails.  LOTS of potholes which made for sore bottoms but thankfully no punctures.

The highlight was riding down the 5km silt jetties – long narrow deltas that extend the banks of the Mitchell into the lakes.  Was quite magical albeit blowy- had the jetty mostly to ourselves with the exception of a few fishermen.

After re-fuelling at the Paynesville bakery we took the ferry to Raymond Island.  Sounded positively idyllic as described to us by the old bird on the ferry- only 540 people live on the island, lovely warm community, huge population of koalas. And it is beautiful. Only downside were the 540,000 mosquitos that await unsuspecting and juicy tourists who don’t happen to know about the mandate for tropical strength Aeroguard. So… David and I are a bit spottier than we were yesterday but did indeed get to see our national treasures in their natural habitat.

However a quick trip to the shops on our return and we are now prepared for anything the insect world throws at us