All posts by Naomi Hax

It was all about the elephants today

Set off at a respectable 8am making our way through the bustling Arusha into the countryside. 

First bit of wildlife was a goat! Then cows and camels. 

We passed the Masai markets – Saturday is market day for the Masai – so the markets were bustling with Masai bringing their animals and produce for sale – men with their checked shawls and women in vibrant fabrics carrying enormous baskets on their heads. Goats fetch about 60 USD.

NTerrain on the way to Tarangerie was vast and not dissimilar to parts of Aus. We arrived round 11ish in a sweltering 37 degrees – roof up and windows open we managed to keep coolish but we did drink like elephants!

ITarangerie  is an enormous park – over 4000 square kilometres, so even in the five hours we were there we barely scraped the surface. It is a ‘wooded grassland’ which means lots of acacia and baobab (in full leaf) with fairly lush grass (as it’s the wet season). The park is home to over 3000 elephants and they were definitely putting on a show today.  The absolute Highlight for us was being totally surrounded by elephants almost within touching distance.  Absolutely magnificent creatures and so nurturing of their babies (which are incredibly cute).

This little guy was having a lovely snack

The big cats were also about today- one sleeping pride and an alert (and Tony tells us hungry) lioness. She was on the prowl less than 200n from the picnic ground where we had lunch! Tony assures is that lions won’t come near large groups of humans but we sat in the furtherest table so that there would be lots of ‘snacks’ before she got to us!

You’ll have to use your imagination for this one

Other sightings today were warthogs, impala, water bucks and zebra & giraffe in the distance.

We are now sitting on an open deck at sunset in our absolutely magnificent lodge (Eileen’s Tree Lodge in Karatu) waiting for dinner which we have no idea what it is but it smells spectacular. 

A day exploring Arusha and surrounds

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Tony arrived round 10 and we set off to explore Arusha and surrounds. Arusha is one of the  largest cities Tanzania (a bustling 2M plus) .it is home to the banking and environmental headquarters, the national courts and diplomat centres. At the base of Kilimanjaro it is cooler than other parts to f Tanzania but still a warm and humid 28 degrees today

We started our day with a walking tour of the city,crowded with street vendors selling secondhand clothes and the like. We then walked d through the local markets- which were a hive of activity and colour. Beautifully elegant ladies carrying gravity defying, enormous baskets of fruit on their heads with rod straight backs. Amazing sights.

From there we visited two coffee plantations – with their beautiful old colonial buildings- a Mecca for tourists.  Had our lunch break, vegetarian pizza and our first cup of Tanzanian cafe latte at one of them.

One plantation houses Shanga- a social enterprise employing people with disability to create marvellous artworks all from donated and recycled materials.  The weaving and spinning wheels made from recycled bike parts were amazing.

Needless to say we had to make a few purchases……

Back in our hotel round 4 and now having a siesta (and cooling off) before dinner. Early night tonight as we start our safari tomorrow so need to be on the road by 8 at the latest (a slight challenge).


Nairobi to Arusha

We had an interesting night last night to say the least.Hit the sack very early and slept like logs until about midnight when we were woken by the sound of our door opening. Our neighbours had  mistaken our door for their own and their key (seemingly one size fits all) had obligingly opened our door.

Thank goodness the chain had held so a bit of an adrenaline rush but otherwise harnmless. Following that we had just got back to sleep and the phone rang to tell isourcat to the airport had arrived 12 hours early (2am rather than 2pm). Nonetheless less, even with these disruptions we managed a solid 8-9 hours sleep which went a long way to helping our jet lag .

Cyrus and family – Tony (Cyrus’ son) and Elizabeth (Cyrus’ wife) came to visit us this morning. It was fantastic to catch up again! Cyrus walked us through our day by day itinerary while we are in Tanzania – it sounds amazing and we are chomping at the bit to get down there.

 

Flight down to Kilimanjaro was very quick, 40 minutes in a 20 seater twin propeller plane. Got great views of the mountain as we flew in! It’s so high we were flying along side the snow capped peaks.

On arrival, we met our drive/guide Tony, who will be with us for the next 11 days. Tomorrow he plans on taking us for a walking tour of Arusha including some of the local markets. He has been kind for this first day – giving us a 10am start! 

Our company for theneXt 11 days


We made it!

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We arrived in  our hotel in Nairobi at about 4pm – 30 hours after leaving home. We were lucky making  it through immigration/customs in less than an hour this time. Hot,  utterly exhausted but very excited, we  have willed  ourselves not to sleep until after an early dinner in the roof to bar – look familiar R, R and D?

Cyrus and family are coming to visit us tomorrow to fill us in on the Tanzanian safari arrangements before we hop on our plane and head down there tomorrow arvo.  

So another day of travel before the real action begins.

The adventure begins….

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Arrived at airport three hours early having been allocated middle seats at opposite ends of the plane and amid fears of many hours of being squished between snoring strangers.  Qatar came through with the goods – not quite the upgrade Caity was hoping for but two seats together on the aisle- so we’re happy campers.

Packed light…..not

So sitting in the coffee shop killing (hours of) time and thought we’d get the blog fired up. 

Seventeen days of Kenyan/Tanzanian adventure ahead! Wifi permitting will blog as we go.

N & C

Heading home: Summing up Kenya/Zanzibar

About to jump on the plane to head home- can’t believe it’s all over. So summing up…..

Total distance travelled (in Kenya Kenya): 2800km
Total number of photos: Ryan 6000+; David 3000, Naomi 100, Roger 6 ( but beautiful).
Total species of wild animals (that we could remember): 42
No. national parks visited: 7

Highlights
Roger – flamingos
Ryan- hot air balloon over the Masai Mara
David- seeing the animals congregating at the water holes in Amboselli
Naomi- can’t choose (of course she can’t) – every day bought something wonderful

What did we learn?

1. We all really like travelling together – even after three weeks in the confines of a 4WD
2. You can buy bottled water literally anywhere in Kenya and good food is easy to get.
3. The beauty of living in the moment
4. How lucky we are to have the chance to experience this.
5. How much wastage of food and other resources there is in our day to day lives at home (very sobering)
6. The long road trips while tiring are a great way of getting a sense of ‘the real Africa’.
7. There’s nothing quite like the taste of dust.
8. And of course, Cyrus is “The Man”

What would we do differently next time?Nothing stands out in particular it’s all been pretty perfect:
1. Travel lighter- we have only worn three sets of clothes.
2. Do a bit more research about each of the areas we are visiting before coming (David was on the ball but the rest of us could have done more).
3. Bring a dust mask for safaris (unless you’re Roger who wouldn’t be seen dead in one in which case a light scarf will do)
4. Bring lots more pencils for the village children- they can’t go to school unless they have pencils and books.
5. Don’t bring any plastic (ie bags for shoes etc) – plastic is illegal in Kenya – a great initiative to clean up the environment but coupled with a USD 20,000 fine.

Sad to leave, as it should be after a great holiday. What to do over the 21 hour flight home?- plan the next one of course- unless we win tattslotto, in which case we’ll be on the first plane back!

Only took is 4 tries to get us both in the photo!

Two on the tear in Nairobi

Cyrus picked us up at 7.15, after a hearty buffet breakfast and we headed off on our day tour of Nairobi- determined to pack in as much as we could.

Down to the Big 3

First stop was at Karen Bloxen’s house (of Out of Africa fame). It is a beautiful stone building designed by a Danish architect and made from stone imported from Sweden. Only The exterior of the building was used in the filming.
The gardens are beautiful with views of the Ngong Hills. I could almost hear Robert Redford’s gramaphone echoing through them.
“I had a farm in Africa, on the edge of the Ngong Hills”


From there we went to the Kazuri bead factory. This factory was established in 1975 by Lady Susan Wood and two African women to offer a way for African single mothers to support themselves. It now employs 300 women. The beads are ceramic. The clay is processed and the beads are rolled, fired and decorated/glazed by the women. Absolutely beautiful (both the beads and the women). We toured the workshop, it was lovely to see the women chatting and laughing away as they worked. I did feel the need to make a few small purchases – David forced me ?

We then headed to Giraffe Manor- where the Rothschild Giraffes (currently only 500 left in Africa) are being preserved. They are just magical creatures- I can now say I have been kissed (slobbered on) by a giraffe! They did assure me that giraffe saliva has antiseptic properties…..

On the way to our next stop we heard an almighty clunk as something in the car snapped. David and six other guys pushed us the couple of hundred metres up the road to the mechanic. I sat up in the back like the Queen of Sheeba. Now sitting in the car while much debate is going on about the root cause….stay tuned.
IMG_4960
Plan B- Cyrus organised transport to our lunch venue -Carnivore.

A bit of a local icon this restaurant serves meat of every imaginable origin. A bit like yum Cha of meat- they bring around racks of meats straight off the charcoal grill.
Meats consumed (by us): lamb, beef, pork (in a number of variants), rabbit, ox tail and ox “balls” (not sure if they are what the name suggests but the tasted like offel). Also had ostrich, crocodile, chicken and turkey. All in small portions, but as you can imagine we came out of there feeling much rounder than we went in.

Returned to our hotel in an absolute food coma- knowing that we should be using their gym but opting for sleep and a G&T instead.

Food coma

One last G & T for the road

Now for the big task of packing….

And then there were two- in Nairobi

Sitting at Zanzibar airport waiting for our flight to Nairobi. The boys are checked through to Hong Kong, so our last couple of hours together.

Summing it up at the airport

A very rudimentary coffee shop- where would we be without Pringles- the universal airport food.

With two hours to kill, time to generate some lists, so here goes – in no particular order…..

1. Animals we have seen: Lions, Cheetah, Leopard, Rhino (black & white), Giraffe (3 types), Zebra (2 types), Wart hogs, Buffalo, Elephants, Bush babies, Hippos, crocodiles, Every type of deer you could imagine)- impala, dicdic, water bucks, bush bucks, oribi, kudu, oryx, garanek gazelle, Thompson gazelle, Elan, heartbeest, Wilder beast, Jackal, Hyena, Squirrels, Baboons, Velvet monkeys, Chimpanzee, Gekko, Monitor lizard, Bats, Red ants, Mongoose, Rock hyrax, tortoise, mosquito, fly
2. Birds: almost Every bird known to man: Ostriches, Flamingoes, Vultures, Sea eagles, (other) Eagles, Owls (we only heard these), Pied Kingfisher, Go-away bird, Crows, Corny bustards, Marabou Storks, Curlews, Herons (lots of different types, Pelicans, Superb Starlings, African Darter, Guinnea fowl (2 types), Peacock, penguins (not really- just checking if you’re still reading),Egyptian geese, secretary birds, spur winged plover, horn bill,
3. Domestic animals-which Cyrus won’t let us count: Donkeys, Goats,, Sheep, chickens/Roosters, cows, Camels, Cats (literally thousands in Zanzibar), and Dogs

So from here on in, we are down to the Big 3- David, Cyrus and I. Nairobi here we come!

Big tortoise = big poo

Four very tired little tourists.

Headed off early this morning on a little motorised canoe aptly named “Tom and Gerry” to Prison Island, where they used to incarcerate anyone who was suspected of having cholera.



The island is now a sanctuary for the giant tortoises, which are surprisingly endearing creatures with loads of personality. They seemed to lap up the attention and were certainly being well fed despite signage to the contrary.

This big guy was purportedly 158 years old (not sure how accurate their tortoise birth records are though). Note we had to be careful tip toeing through the tortoise deposits- tortoise poo would give a cow pat a run for its money!

Then went round to the other side of the island while N&D snorkelled around the coral reef while R&R (aka the whimps) sunbaked on the deck.

Came back in time for a late lunch at our now favourite coffee house (Zanzibar CH) and then strolled the streets until our legs would carry us no further. It is Saturday here so the atmosphere is very different, more relaxed “feel” today.

Kids are the same the world around- nothing like a good dive bomb

Families out and about

We are now inhaling a multicultural feast of Thai spring rolls, Indian samosa, Chinese fried rice and Club sandwiches ( we’re nothing if not eclectic), sitting under an enormous tree in a cafe on the beach, with a local musician playing African jazz- perfect.

It’s a beautiful balmy night, food’s yummy and we’re feeling a tad melancholy that tonight’s our last night together. The boys head back to Honkers tomorrow and David & I head back to meetCyrus for our last couple of days in Nairobi.

It was all about the food today

Hired a car and driver and ventured a bit further afield today. Headed north west to the spice farms

They walked us through each of the spices- amazing that we eat all these products but have no idea where some of them come from- or of their medicinal benefits.

Nutmeg- the red surrounding the seed is a powerful hallucinogen

Lipstick fruit (lychee family)

They grow all spices for export and interior consumption. Almost all are introduced species coming from India and Asia. The cinnamon tree is the “queen of the spices” – every part of the plant is used- bark (cinnamon sticks) & leaves (curry), roots (Vicks Vapor rub) & trunk (burn as insect repellant). After the tour we were sung the welcome song from the coconut tree and presented with new adornments…..
Looking like good Aussie tourists

After a spice and food tasting, we made a quick detour to the slave caves- where the slaves were housed after abolition so that the Arab nations could continue the slave trade.

Home and quick turnaround to head to the other side of the island (about 1 1/2 hours drive) for dinner at The Rock restaurant. A magical little shack perched on a rock about 100m from shore.


Paddled out through the waves but could walk back as the tide went out. Beautiful full moon, gorgeous food, great ambiance- would have been a great spot for a wedding ?