Distance travelled: 53km
Tunnels: 3 (longest 920m)
Breakdowns: 1 (of bike not us)

After an expansive breakfast buffet we set off round 9am to cover the 10km to the 10.15 ferry from Brensholmen to Botnhamn on Senja (the second largest island in Norway). The ferry ride was spectacular made even more magical by the appearance of a pod of whales (Springer Whales) which mesmerised us all.

While not quite as long a ride as yesterday the hills were much more challenging- long steady inclines, often several kilometres long – we will have thighs of steel by the time we get home…..in the mean time we are just in a world of pain.

Travelling along the edge of the fjords tunnels were also regular features today. Three tunnels- one long and two relatively short – all wide and well lit, but curved. This made it was very disconcerting when cars entered the tunnel as you could hear them but couldn’t tell which direction they were coming from until they were nearly upon you. Not my favourite moments of the day.

We passed through numerous little fishing villages along the way, many with net enclosures (pools) in the shallows- which we later found were for farming shrimp.

After a day of big climbs, just 1km from our destination our derailleur malfunctioned meaning that the bike will only function in the hardest gears. So the fun began- within seconds word got round the village that two Aussies (old farts?) on a tandem needed bike repairs. While there is no bike mechanic in these parts the hotelier and the local car mechanic concurred that the derailleur needs professional attention. So word came to us at the hotel that a man with a van will pick us up at 9am tomorrow and take us to another village where there is ‘someone’ who is qualified for the task.

Spending tonight in my first ever experience of a youth hostel- packed to the rafters (only accommodation in town), immaculately clean, great food but paper thin walls and of course the joy of sharing a bathroom with about 20 randoms

Only my iPhone pics today – insufficient internet here to upload Davids high res images

Distance travelled: 64km (40km moderately undulating; 10km blissfully downhill; 10 km punishingly uphill)
Weather: 8 degrees C; everything except snow.

Set off round 9 for the first day of our adventure in misty rain. A bit of tricky traffic to negotiate for the first couple of km (especially fun give we were riding on the other side of the road) but once out of Tromso we travelled on either designated bike paths or quiet (ish) roads.

Our route largely followed the coast skirting fjords – which made navigation a breeze.

Spent the whole day feeling like we were part of a National Geographic shoot and pinching ourselves that we should be so lucky to be here – Scenery was wild and spectacular- crystal clear glacial green waters reflecting spectacular snow topped mountains, with quaint waterside cottages. Made the enormous climbs worthwhile- even in rain/hail, this place is incredible.


Once the sun showed its face, colours transformed

Had a couple of close encounters with reindeer along the way – with herds coming down from the mountains for the grass where snow has thawed. No bears thank goodness!

A few of the challenges today:

Sommaroy is an old fishing village – pretty, but also lots of oil and construction. – only one hotel and we are in it. Meeting up with a US and British couple for dinner who are travelling the same route.

David reading maps for tomorrow – in hostel type accommodation tomorrow so not sure if we will have wifi access for blogging.

Max temp: 6 degrees C
Rain: all day, but we now know our coats really are waterproof.

Slept like babies las night- first full night’s sleep since arriving in the land of the midnight sun- must be getting used to sleeping in the light (phew).

Set off early to the the local bike mechanic, who doubles as motorbike mechanic (and many other things from the look of his workshop). He was just as excited to see us as we were him- he keeps a list of all the brands of bikes he’s serviced over the last 30 years- while we were not the first tandem, he did get to add a new brand to his garage wall.

Took some time to fix the wheel which had been skewed in flight (so much for fragile stickers). After a quick ride round the block to get used to riding on the wrong side again we scurried back to escape the rain (at least until tomorrow).

Spent much of the afternoon in the polar museum – a bit like Melbourne Aquarium only colder. Some fabulous films about the Northern Lights (which of course we won’t get to see on this trip) and arctic wildlife etc.

Couldn’t resist going back to our little pub for dinner for another tapas feast.

Panniers are packed ready to set off first thing tomorrow, wet weather gear is laid out ready (hoping this will mean we won’t need it), and David is poring over the maps hoping we get at least the first few turns right.

Both we and our luggage arrived in Tromso last night, which was a small miracle given airline industrial action meant our flight to Oslo left over an hour late and we missed our connecting flight as our luggage was still on the previous plane.

Flew up north with literally a whole plane full of professional photographers and scientists who all seemed to know each other- so we knew we were in for something special and we weren’t disappointed.

Tromso itself is a quaint little town, almost 300 years old but mostly post WW2 as the Germans raised it to the ground to leave nothing for the Russians.

This tiny town is set on an enormous port, skirted by snow capped alps. Eight months of year in total darkness, 2 (now) in 24 hour light and 2 in transition.

The town jumps all night and has more pubs per capita than anywhere in Norway. We opted for one that wasn’t showing soccer (aka was less wild) for a dinner of seafood tapas for me (halibut, king prawns, scampi, cheeses & eggs that had clearly come from a very small birds bottom), and reindeer sausages for David (who seems to be eating his way through Santa’s sleigh).

Assembled most of bike before bed. A broken spoke or two that we will need to sort today (befriended local bike mechanic online before coming) but otherwise seems to be OK – but will feel more confident once we have a ride. We start our tour on Monday.

Sitting in the airport lounge waiting for flight to Norway. Long delays due to airline strike (no- these things don’t just happen in Oz) so have a bit of time to sum up up our last week.

WE LOVED STOCKHOLM!

Such a beautiful, lay back city- FABULOUS food, amazing history, friendly people, sooooo easy to get around – such a walkable city and endless daylight in which to do it.

Three days in inspiring conference for me since last post while David ‘did the town’ to its fullest.
Highlights:
Nobel museum
Day trip out in the archipelago to Sandhamn (David)
Abba museum (shamefacedly me)
Vasamusset
Gordana restaurant (David, me, work buddies and anyone who is anyone in Stockholm)
A city that should be on everyone’s bucket list….

A public holiday here in Sweden with loads of festivities. Stockholm turned on glorious weather for us again, allowing us to walk our legs off.

David and I set off early(ish) to Skansen – Stockholm’s open air museum. Historical Swedish, Finnish and Norwegian houses/cottages have been re-homed here as a living history with traditional trades (eg glass blowing, pottery) still operating. The most beautiful part however was walking through the lush wooded acreage and the views over Stockholm – very tranquil.

We caught the ferry back to old town – skirting islands lined with rows of beautiful old buildings

Old town was bustling with families and activity. We were drawn towards a lovely street choir of women in traditional dress when we found ourselves standing next to our very own family – Sarah and Ptolemy! Only in Sweden……

We spent the rest of the afternoon in the Nobel Museum. A couple of Australians featured prominently. There was a fabulous special exhibition of science laureates with life size photographs of them holding their own crayon drawings of their work, with audio recordings of them ‘walking you through’ their diagrams. A fabulous lesson in science communication.

Caught up with the team in Old Town for a hearty traditional dinner of Swedish meatballs. elk burgers and grilled salmon and mash. I drew the line at reindeer- somehow couldn’t bring myself to eat Rudolf!

After planning a flight-recovery sleep-in, the sunlight woke us up ridiculously early – there are only about 4 hours of darkness here, so doubt that we will get to see any of them.

The hotel has a fabulous breakfast spread including the BEST liverwurst which set us up for a day on our feet.

We had intended to catch the ferry to Djurgarden (island home to several of the museums), but the weather was superb so we continued walking and island hopped via the bridge. We were waylaid for a short time, caught up in the ‘practice’ parade of the king’s guard preparing for Swedish National Day tomorrow.

Saw some interesting things along the way….

First sop was at the Vasamusset – home of the Vasa warship built in the early 1600s, which sank 20 minutes into its maiden voyage. It was pulled up from the sea bed in the 60s and has been restored- incredible structure, about 7 stores high and ornately carved – a work of art really.

From one extreme to another our next stop was the Abba Museum. Couldn’t resist having our photo taken with the team….

But DID resist the huge temptation to karaoke with video simulated Abba crew. Despite strong encouragement from David, watching some middle aged Swedish guy slaughtering Waterloo was a strong deterrent.

By the time we got home again we had been walking for 8 hours solid. Quick early dinner with newly arrived conference buddies & now hoping to beat the jet lag with an early night.

We arrived in Stockholm travel weary but with all bags in tact – although haven’t broken open the bike bags, so fingers crossed nothing has been damaged n transit.

Arrived in central Stockholm right in the middle of the Stockholm marathon so walked the last 200m (with our 64.5 kg of luggage ) as the road was closed to cars.

Funky little hotel right in the heart of Stockholm (thanks Olga if you’re reading this)- walking distance to everything.

Stashed our bike in the luggage store – room small so the bike or David had to go- dropped our bags off and headed off to explore.

Spent the afternoon and evening inOld Town – gorgeous cobblestoned original parts of the city. Mix of (slightly tacky) tourist shops and high class giftware/crafts. Reminded us of Salzburg only original rather than reconstructed post wW2.

Had dinner in a rustic pub style restaurant. Fabulous food and wine – only requiring a small extension to the mortgage.

Sitting here at 9pm in broad daylight- can’t believe we’ve been on the go for nearly 48 hours and still buzzing. Due to get dark here round 11 and light again at 3 – so let’s hope the curtains have good block out.