Sitting in cafe at Nairobi airport doing the inevitable ‘summing up’ of the holiday.

Favourite bits (Caity): close encounter with lion; sleeping under canvas in the Serengetti bush camp and of course her romantic encounter with the talk guy (aka Gerry the giraffe).

Naomi – hmmm travelling with my girl and yes, still the hippos.

What we have learned along the way (thanks to our fabulous guides):

1. The African ecosystem is like a car engine- each part is important- you add anything or take anything away and it stops working.
2. Humans are the riskiest predators
3. How to survive on the wild (see below)

How to survive encounters with wild animals:

Lion: stare him in the eyes, don’t blink and look fierce – and don’t run (unless you can run faster than whoever you are with)

Buffalo: lie oh the ground- they can’t get their horns down that low and won’t stomp on anything they don’t recognise

Hippo: dive under water- they can’t open their mouths under water (hmmm how long can we hold our breath when submerged in hippo poo?)

Cheetah: stay calm and quiet and enjoy the experience and don’t make eye contact – if you’re calm and not a threat they won’t harm you

Crocodile: if he has hold of you poke him in the eyes or ears – don’t bother calling for help no one will come.

Leopard: stay calm and quiet and pretend they’re not there. If you make eye contact you’ve got about 45 seconds to reflect (although I’m sure that could feel like hours).

All in all- best survival skill is to say in the truck!

Would we come back? ABSOLUTELY but we’ll bring the whole family next time – so start saving folks!

First of all – we are safe- our hotel is nowhere near where the attack occurred. We do feel very sad for the lovely people of Nairobi.

Today we hit the main tourist sites in Nairobi with Cyrus and his cousin Ruth.

First stop was the David Sheldrick rhino and elephant orphanage.
Got up close and personal (along with a couple of hundred other tourists) with a two month old baby rhino and lots of rescued orphaned elephants aged up to three years. Very cute watching these enormous babies being bottle fed.

They have loads s of personality- very cheeky. Highlight (not) was one of the larger babies turning his rear towards us and loudly breaking wind right in front of us – EEK!

Next stop was the Giraffe Centre which is a conservation park that aims to preserve the declining Rothschild giraffe population. After feeding and kissing (Caitlan only) we were absolutely covered in slobber – thank goodness for wet wipes!

Next we headed to the Kazuri bead factory – this was my pick and a return visit for me. We toured the workshop with the ladies making and decorating the most gorgeous beads. Needles to say we felt compelled to make a few purchases – I’ll be spoilt for choice with earrings when we return.

From here it was off to the Nairobi Mamba Village for lunch on the lawn followed by a tour of the croc farms some of these bad boys were huge.

Headed home round 5.30 saying our sad farewells to Cyrus- at least until next time. Now lying like sloths on our beds putting off the packing exercise that’s ahead of us. Fly out mid morning but have to be at the airport 3 hours early- are expecting increased security in the wake of the incidents in Nairobi today.

Picked up our dresses from the tailor this morning – perfect fit and all constructed on a Singer treadle sewing machine!

USo now we are sitting at Kilimanjaro airport waiting for our flight to Kenya, eating possibly the best fries we’ve had in Africa and reflecting on the Tanzanian part of the journey.  What an incredible experience it’s been. Animals we’ve seen (and most of them up close) roughly in order of presentation ( yes we did keep a daily list) are: goats, cows, Elephant, Leopard , Giraffe, Water buffalo, Warthog, Wildebeest, Black rhino, Waterbuck, Impala, Thompson gazelle, Grand gazelle, Hearterbeast, Bushbuck, Zebra, Camel, Lions, Olive baboons, Blue monkey, Velvet monkey, Kori bustard, White stalk, ostrich, Superb Starling, Lilac breasted Rolla, African Jakana, Saddle billed stalk, Agama lizard, Python (very special to see one of these in the wild ), Topi , Cheetah, Spotted Hyena, Hippopotamus, Adolf, Dic dic, Eland, Banded Mongoose, Secretary bird, Long created eagle, Black bellied bustard, White bellied bustard, Reed buck, Rock/tree hyrax, Black back jackal , Vulture, White ramped shrike, Egyptian Goose, Blacksmith pullover, Lesser masked face weaver, Lesser flamingo (pink), Greater flamingo (White), Maribu Stalk, Red necked supufoll, Grey heron, Guinea fowl, Dwarf/slender mongoose, White headed buffalo weaver, mosquitos, grass hoppers, beetles (of the insect variety), Tsetse flies, and last but not least hundreds of donkeys.

Favourites: lions for Caity; hippos for me (mainly because of their fabulous laugh)

Looking forward to joining Cyrus for a day seeing highlights of Nairobi  tomorrow.

Between our late night partying, rowdy cohabitants at the hotel and bed bugs we were a bit sleep deprived this morning, and let’s just say one of us woke up a bit more spotty than they went to bed.

All sorted with the hotel, new bed linen in place (hopefully bullet proof) so we are hoping for. Better sleep tonight.

Today we went to the gate of Kilimanjaro- the assembly point for the walkers and the masses of porters carrying their gear/food/water. Some of the porters have climbed to the summit over 300 times. Most tourists take between 3 to 6 days to walk depending on which of the 8 routes they take, but the world record is just over 6 hours!

The vegetation on the mountain is tropical with lush undergrowth ofcoffee bushes shaded by banana palms. Banana beer and Killi coffee are two of the main produce – we tried the latter only. The coffee was hand ground, shelled and roasted over a fire for us – so strong it nearly put hairs on our chests, but actually lovely flavour.

After a couple of hours walking round the base of the mountain we went to a local cultural centre   – then visited some local waterfalls.

This little guy came along with his dad (our guide)- very sweet and perfectly behaved.

Last stop was at a local tailor where Caitlan and I are having some fabric made up into a dress each (hard to limit it to one given the fabrics are so gorgeous). We pick them up tomorrow on the way to the airport- so prepare for the new look!

Set off at 7 after yet qnother superb Tanzanian breaky omelette, heading ‘bush bound’ to meet a group of busmen. Our guide JJ introduced us and acted as interpreter. 

The bushmen are hunters and gatherers. Their main protein is baboon and they had the morning hunt on the fire when we arrived – surrounded by village dogs eager for the scraps. What they don’t eat they hang dry for later hydration. They are nomadic and move from huts to caves in the wet season.

Following this we visited the village where JJs grandmother (94) lives. They make their living through forging spear heads for the bushmen and through tourism (making and selling bracelets made from reclaimed metals).

The areas we passed through today were nigh more agricultural – crops of Corn, maize  and red onion. The government purchases the crops and distributes the across Eastern Africa.

After  visiting the two camps we started the long (5 hour) drive to Moshi.  With temperatures in the high 30s  and only a WD60 air conditioner (if you are born after the 60s then ask your parents what this means) it was a long hot drive. 

Arriving round 6 we then had to say a sad farewell to Tony (as the safari part of our trip is finished) – he has been a fabulous guide/driver and looked after us soooo well. 

YAfter dinner our tour operator owner Freddie, a friend of Cyrus, came and picked us up and took us to his home where they were celebrating his sisters engagement.  It was a wonderful night and such a priviledge to be invited. The whole family welcomed us – everyone (except us) dressed up in the most beautiful clothes,  music, dancing (which we joined in) and loads of fun.  such an honour.

We have two nights here in Moshi – staying in a lodge that feels a bit last me a backpackers, lots of young people a noise – mostly people who are heading up to clmb the mountain.

Tomorrow we will be heading up to the lower reaches of Kilimanjaro needless to say we wont be climbing, but it is now on the bucket list!

It was very hard to leave out idyllic tented camp this morning but none the less we set off round 7 heading for NgoroNgoro crater. 

Last night over dinner the staff sang us a farewell ‘welcome song’ and presented us with a cake – very cool. They were dancing and using every conceivable  Pan, spoon and plate for percussion. Much hooting and laughing- it was fabulous. All came out to wish us farewell this morning.

Wildlife were out in force as we left- we came across a pride of lions feasting on their kill, with hyenas lurking all around (just out of reach) waiting for the leftovers. 

Just got past the Serengeti gate and our fuel line came loose – sending Tony under the car with tools. Alas a temporary fix only so needed to detour to a garage for repairs and fuel- we had lost almost all the fuel along the way.

After about an hour  with multiple people under the car it was fixed and we were back on our way.

The Ngorongoro Crater was incredible. The rim sits at 2500 metres above sea level with the crater 650meters below – a steep drive in and out. The steep sides restrict movement of animals in and  out, so basically it’s a 305 square mile discrete ecosystem.  It houses almost all animals except giraffe, leopard and impala – as there are no trees. 

It feels a bit like the garden of Eden- lush undergrowth and animals everywhere.

Managed to see a few rhino – all in the distance but it means Caity has now seen all of the Big 5.

Spent a few hours driving round the crater- the up close zebra experiences were amazing.

This is the last wildlife we’ll see for the trip, so it felt a bit sad heading out of the park.

We arrived at our lodge absolutely covered in red dust and watched as the staff beat the dust out of our bags with straw brooms.

A shower never felt so good!

Out last day and n the Serengeti today. Feeling a bit worse for the wear so we delved into the suitcase pharmacy and opted for two short safaris rather than a full day.

Bush bathroom wasn’t too attractive with these guys lounging around……

This afternoon we visited the Serengeti Research Visitor Centre. Our wonderful student guide Melvin gave us a very informative tour explaining all aspects of the migration – who migrates, who tags along eating those who migrate and who stays behind.

The centre itself is really beautiful. Landscaped by a German designer with fabulous pressed metal sculptures of the animals and informative displays.

Sitting on the tent verandah relaxing before dinner. Will be hard to leave this beautiful camp tomorrow. Heading back through NgoroNgoro first thing tomorrow.

Sight for the day: hyena running down the road with a car tyre in his mouth! Tony thought he might use it to clean his teeth!

Saw hyena last night on way to tent- their eyes glowing in the flash light.  Our escort reassured us that  they are cowards so we have nothing to fear – but I’m a coward too so not sure how that works.

Set off on the long haul down to south western Serengeti today in search of rhino. There are only 21 rhino in the Serengeti and they are tagged and monitored by rangers daily to ensure the poachers don’t get them- no wonder they hide away! And today they did this very successfully despite Tony’s persistence. 

Despite the almost total lack of wildlife today this area of the Serengeti is really beautiful – full of kopjes (pronounced copy’s) which are huge sedimentary rocky outcrops – where lions like to live. Very reminiscent of the lion king.

Our lunch spot was meant to be on one such skopje but no other tourists/trucks were around so Tony thought it best not to tempt fate of the lion encounter kind. So we ate lunch on the bank of a salt lake with a smattering of Greater Flamingos- these are large and white in colour- none the less just as beautiful as the ‘Lesser’ (pink) ones- even if in small numbers.

After lunch we started the long drive home in light rain- the first we’ve had while we’ve been out on safari. encountered various wildife along the way….

We slept like logs last night. Absolute darkness and so quiet that we could hear the blood pumping in our ears.  If there were animals round our tent we didn’t hear them- other than a few hyena noises this morning.

After a very early wake up (5.15) and breakfast we headed off for a dawn game drive. 

Jolted, slipped and slid our way around the VERY muddy tracks down to the southern Serengeti area. This southern part is pure unadulterated plains – not a tree in sight (apparently the volcanic soil is hostile to trees). There are masses of small termite hills (apparently cheetah’s favourite resting places) and outcrops of enormous boulders for big cats to lounge on.

UIt was all about the big cats this morning with some very close encounters.

We did see one cheetah but was too far for our whimpy zoom lens (where are R & D when you need them)- perhaps without a photo it’s a bit like the fish that got away?

Being wet season the roads are gluggy, we got bogged once but after much wheel spinning and flying clumps of mud we found traction – with the open roof we all arrived back in camp a bit grubbier than we left.

JAfter a sumptuous lunch in the dining tent and a brief siesta we headed back out  to see the hippo pools at dusk. A long drive but totally worth it.  Literally tens of hippos wallowing around in what smells a bit like cow poo  flapping their tails and laughing their heads off – their laughing is infectious – will perfect the sound before I come home so I can demonstrate! 

Sitting on our tent verandah sipping G & T overlooking the plains of the Serengeti 

Ironically we have the best wifi we have had for the whole safari – so we will blog away.

Took the whole day to get here from Karatu all on dirt roads, which equated to an 8 hour safari massage!

We drove through the Ngorongoro game park to get to Serengeti hosting the incredibly beautiful Ngorongoro Caldera – we drove around the rim but will be returning to explore the craters wildlife later in the week.

We were spoilt by wild life today. Given a picture says a thousand words I’ll let them do the talking

Arrived at our camp round 5. Tents are in the heart of the ‘unfenced’ game park so we can expect wildlife during the night. We are so reassured by the tiny whistle to blow if animals make us fearful – should we blow it now?????

5am start tomorrow for a sunrise game drive. Can’t wait!