Category Archives: Salzburg to Budapest 2014

On the road at last – Salzburg to Attersee

Distance travelled: 58km

Number of times we had to stop for directions: 9

We set off at the respectable hour of 8.30am maps in hand and confident that we could find our way after our earlier trial run. hmmm…. The touring company had provided us with a very undetailed map and ‘translated’ written instructions as to how to navigate the more tricky sections of the route.

The first 15km took 3 hours!!! Once we worked out that ‘turn right’ sometimes meant ‘turn left’ and ‘underpass’ sometimes meant ‘overpass’ – we decided to ditch the instructions and go with our gut – at least until we found a village with an information centre, English speaking guide & new maps. From then on it was much more straight forward (well a bit).

The scenery was spectacular. Gorgeous green fields full of dandelions between Salzburg & The village of Eugendorf…..

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the leg from Eugendorf to Thalgau took forever – many missed turns – ended up in the middle of someone’s paddock at one stage. But retained our sense of humour and tried not to panic at the thought of the remaining 50km of uncertainty.

A little bit of 'cross country' to get back on track
A little bit of ‘cross country’ to get back on track

Once we hit the Salzkammergut Cycle path we were able to relax and follow our noses & enjoy our surroundings more. And wow – this is spectacular countryside!

David's view
David’s view
My view
My view

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A 1km tunnel through the mountain - just what a chlostrophobe like me needs! I felt the fear and did it anyway!!
A 1km tunnel through the mountain – just what a chlostrophobe like me needs! I felt the fear and did it anyway!!

Clearly David took this photo- the lakes district is full of the rich & famous- he couldn't believe how many Ferraris were in one town
Clearly David took this photo- the lakes district is full of the rich & famous- he couldn’t believe how many Ferraris were in one town

We arrived at our hotel at about 3pm. Right on the edge of the beautiful Attersee Lake

hotel Post Am - our home for the night
hotel Post Am – our home for the night
And the view from the hotel door...
And the view from the hotel door…

All in all a fabulous, albeit challenging day – we are SOOOOO glad that we gave this a go!

May Day

May Day in Salzberg heralded the post-winter opening of the Untersberg Mountain cable car, so we donned our winter woollies and headed up. The cable car trip up was eerie as the mountain was shrouded in clouds.

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David in his favourite habitat
David in his favourite habitat

However with the promise of the fog clearing we holed up in the tavern and waited it out

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We weren’t disappointed

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After a quick trip back to old town to mingle with the masses in traditional dress celebrating May Day, we managed to talk a guy from a bike hire place into selling is two tyre tubes to replace spare we used on the flat from yesterday (as all the shops are closed today). So we are now set to head off early in the morning on the first leg of our ride, from Salzburg to Attersee – fingers crossed the weather is kind to us!

Back in the saddle again

Flat tyres: 1

No pictures tonight. Just a quick entry to say we did our first test ride tonight with a minor hurdle to overcome first – a flat tyre. But a great opportunity to test out our bike maintenance skills before heading out into the wilderness – and we did it!

Rode the first 10km of the route we will be taking on Friday just to make sure we know our way out of the city (maps are in German). It’s actually really easy to get around by bike – only the first 50m is on roads and the rest on designated cycle paths or lanes – well at least for the first 10k anyway 🙂

As you can imagine we attract a bit of attention- lots of call outs as we go by – the words ‘tandem’ and ‘helmut’ seem to be part of the universal language. Not sure if they are calling out “she’s not pedalling on the back” or “you look like idiots in those helmets”.

Cyclists are everywhere and ride quite sedately here- no Lycra in sight (which is refreshing). All very friendly. One chap rode along side us for a couple of km chatting about the city and his visit to Oz. His parting advice was “Stop in the beer hall next to the church on your way home, and get rid of those helmets!”

hmmm – maybe if we put shower caps over the top of them people won’t realise we are wearing helmets???

The hills are alive………

Strudels consumed: 1 each
Outrageously funny tourist experiences: 1
Belly laughs: 100+

WARNING: If you are not a Sound of Music fan exit this post NOW.

We woke up bright and early today – David could hardly contain himself, as today was the day of the Sound of Music Tour!!! With the rain teaming down (yes it was the Sound of Music tour and not the Singing in the Rain tour) we skipped down to the bus singing about our favourite things – it kept raining.

So…let’s start at the very beginning…a very good place to start… (Collective groan)

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Rog, don't worry - I didn't tell anyone I was your sister!
Rog, don’t worry – I didn’t tell anyone I was your sister!

Our tour guide Peter was hilarious – but also really knowledgable about Salzburg – so it was actually a great way to get to know the city. Although cloud cover obscured the mountain views in the Lakes district.

I am 50 going on .....21
I am 50 going on …..21

The route down to Mondsee (the town with the church where Maria & the Baron got married) was the same as we will be taking on the first day of our ride (or the bike track along side it) – so it gave us a sneak peek of what we will be in for.

St Michael's a church, amondsee
St Michael’s a church, amondsee

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We finished up at the Mirabell Palace (palace built by the Archbishop for his mistress with whom he had 14 children….go figure) where all the Do Rei Me scenes were filmed.

I knew I would fall in love with an Austrian man...
I knew I would fall in love with an Austrian man…

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As luck would have it, it was the Mayor’s birthday, so we were treated to a traditional ceremony, complete with strapping (although aged) men in lederhosen and an armed salute.

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staring down the barrel of a gun - Clearly O H & S not on the agenda here
staring down the barrel of a gun – Clearly O H & S not on the agenda here

From here we went to the Hohensalzburg Fortress stopping only for a quick tour of the Mozart residence on the way. The fortress was spectacular with incredible views of the city…
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Finished the day with a traditional hearty pub meal of boiled beef and potatoes (for me) and sausages and sauerkraut (for David) with the inevitable stein of course.

Last job before bed was to assemble the bike (thank goodness that’s over!). Will test ride today – only 2 more days before the big ride starts!

Salzburg – what a city!

Set off by train from Munich to Salzburg early this morning (well early somewhere in the world). Taxi driver nearly had a hernia picking up our 30kg bags – was quick to accept David’s offer of help for the second one.

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Loaded our bags on the train, bought our coffees and we were good to go…..you know it’s a long time since you’ve had a good Melbourne coffee when Starbucks tastes OK.

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Trip took two hours – I still can’t get used to the idea that a 2 hour train ride gets you to another country!

Hotel here very different to our cute little pension in Munich – not so homely – but brilliantly located – with a promise of a great night’s sleep!

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Spent the afternoon roaming Old Salzburg town. Just like a picture book – pretty much preserved intact with original buildings & fabulous shops ranging from tourist kitch to incredibly elegant couture. Some glorious dirndl and lederhosen – Aaron and Caity, do we have a surprise for you!

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Salzburg Cathedral
Salzburg Cathedral

Inside the Cathedral
Inside the Cathedral

Even Mozart makes it to graffiti
Even Mozart makes it to graffiti

A rainy day in Munich

Confucius says: “he who forsakes an umbrella for extra luggage space ends up with wet head”

A wet cold day today and being Sunday all shops were closed – meaning that our ‘buy anything we forget’ philosophy let us down in the umbrella department. So we opted for indoors (mostly).

We spent the morning at The Residenz – the incredibly opulent palace of the Bavarian Kings.

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A masterpiece in front of a masterpiece!
A masterpiece in front of a masterpiece!

Of course all that exercise made us hungry so we headed off for a traditional Bavarian feed…..
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We couldn’t believe how many Munichians spend their Sundays window shopping – even with the wet weather.

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Now packing for Salzburg – booked on the 10am train.

Beer, pretzels & relaxation – three basic staples

A very relaxing day here in Munich. Started the day with a roof top bus ride to orient us to the city –

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– then set off walking & exploring quaint streets, shops and the Viktualienmarkt- the biggest market in Munich.
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The Viktualienmarkt
The Viktualienmarkt

Asparagus is in season!
Asparagus is in season!

A glorious sunny day so we finished up in the beer garden in the English Garden (along with half of the Munich population) – seats 7000 people! Fantastic atmosphere, brass band playing beer, pretzels (and size is everything when it comes to pretzels) and Bavarian sausages were the main fare.
As they say in the classics…”when in Rome……”

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Note mine is a regular stein & David’s is the Gross (really really huge) stein.

The English garden
The English garden

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The long road to Munich

Time: 33 hours door to door
Complimentary upgrades: zero 🙁

Had a smooth trip over with no delays thankfully. For all ye doubters, I did manage to fit one month’s clothes in my carry on – see photographic evidence below.

Yes - it is all in there!
Yes – it is all in there!

We checked in our bike bags with trepidation with hardly a gap between fragile stickers. We were very glad to see these babies still in one piece at the other end

Arrived all in one piece- phew
Arrived all in one piece- phew

Our hotel in Munich is a cute little Pension with the biggest door on earth, the smallest room and the most amazing view- very cute.

Big door for a little hotel
Big door for a little hotel

Our little attic room
Our little attic room

Our little attic room

View from that little window
View from that little window

Arrived at hotel mid afternoon and warded off jet lag with a long walk through the old town – a beautiful picture book city buzzing with people and bikes. Have decided not to unpack our bike here despite the fantastic bike paths – the city is so walkable and we don’t want to lose one of our valuable sightseeing days unpacking it and re-packing to head to Salzburg- so it’s Shanks pony for us here!

seigester Victory Gates- next to our hotel
seigester Victory Gates- next to our hotel
Late lunch at the English Gardens
Late lunch at the English Gardens
Bikes everywhere
Bikes everywhere
OMG- the shoe/handbag shops! Now questioning the wisdom of the 'carry on luggage only' policy!
OMG- the shoe/handbag shops! Now questioning the wisdom of the ‘carry on luggage only’ policy!
Now that's my kind of library - if we had sat down for a read we might still be there now!
Now that’s my kind of library – if we had sat down for a read we might still be there now!