Set off by train from Bodo round lunchtime. Most challenging part was boarding with our five bags/cases now that we are back to carrying rather than riding the bike.

For the first leg (9 1/2 hours) to Tromdheim the train was full but mostly with local folks transferring be teen villages- we and one other lady (a German marathon runner returning home after completing a marathon in Tromso) were the only long haulers in our carriage. We had a steady flow of people in and out of the seats next to us – Its amazing how almost ten hours of boredom makes you a real voyeur – first we had a couple of young girls who had been on a shopping day- got to see all their purchases as they reviewed them (mostly Nike sporting goods); then there was a grandma with her two young teen grandchildren – who ate continuously and seemed to swap seats every two minutes – and the Norwegian couple who sat down opposite us and then immediately asked to change seats – I know we hadn’t showered for a while but….. Upside was it gave us empty seats to spread out in for a while.
Scenery was pretty exquisite (although we are getting pretty blasé about beautiful views now- they have to truly be spectacular to be photo worthy).


A couple of hours in we crossed over 60degrees North back out of the Arctic circle and started to see gradual increases in outside temperature.

Filled in long hours playing cards (until I got sick of David beating me) and listened to literally every song on my iPad.
At Trondheim we changed trains, and direction to Oslo- leaving at 11pm we had a sleeper car (aka coffin). Saw our fist darkness in almost four weeks, although it was fleeting. The biggest treat was seeing the midnight sunset- truly beautiful.

Arrived in Oslo round 6.30am. Taxi to our hotel – delightful ivy covered older style hotel and by far he most swanky we have stayed in so far- we will definitely have to lift our wardrobe standards.
Check In was at 3pm, so we stashed our bags, had breakfast and even though seriously jet (train) lagged set off to explore Oslo. Like the rest of Norway Oslo displayed all the elements today- so we opted for more inside activities – starting off gently with a trawl through the shops.
Visited the Oslo Cathedral which was well worth the visit, first because the organist was practicing and second because of its amazing ceiling- by a Norwegian painter but it looked like a tapestry.

Couldn’t believe how late we slept in today – talk about stop riding and go to the pack!! Woke up just before ten realising we had just 10 minutes to get down and eat before breakfast buffet closed. Used the foot in the door technique, fills our plates and sat there brazenly until they politely reminded us it was time to close – breakfasts here are too good to miss.

We were tourists today – did a bus tour to the main Bodo attraction Saltstraumen – the worlds largest maelstrom where opposing tides from two neighbouring fjords meet six hourly creating a whirlpool. Most spectacular is that the fish also get caught up in it, with schools leaping out of the water, attracting birds and fishermen alike.

Bodo , while a reasonably large regional town, is fairly unremarkable- architecture, all 1950/60 – as the city was bombed in WW2. Despite being the gateway to the north and the Lofoten, shops were minimal, but heaps of cafes and shoe shops (all selling very sensible shoes even on my standards).

Stopped briefly (or that was he intention) at the rail station to pick up our pre-booked tickets to Oslo for tomorrow- only to find our booking had been cancelled – or so the machine as telling us. A couple of hours on the phone navigating pre recorded prompts in Norwegian (you can imagine how well that went), we finally managed to secure said tickets (or an email clarifying that tickets will be issued) – needless to say we plan to get there early tomorrow. Train ticket $100AUD, phone call to clarify about ticket $50AUD!

Well we set off round 9 for our last cycle on Norwegian soil- a short 5km pedal to the ferry terminal at Moskenes where we boarded the car ferry to Bodo.

We had a few moments of uncertainty when our luggage carter still hadn’t arrived at 1020 with our bags for the 10.30 ferry – however he got there in the nick of time so we didn’t’ have to resort to a plan B (which is just as well as we didn’t have one). A balmy 19 degrees made it beautiful on deck,, so we sat out for the first half of the (4hour) journey, then came in for a nap.

In Bodo I got a cab to the hotel with the bags while David did a solo ride (blissfully peaceful I imagine) so he got to feel what it’s like when she’s really not pedalling on the back.

Had an early last dinner with a couple of our tour buddies before they set off, and then negotiated the acrobatic challenges of deconstructing our bike in a hotel room the size of a shoe box. Went more smoothly than we anticipated taking only 4 hours to clean her, take her apart, wrap her and pack her up.

Have now restored the room to some semblance of order and collapsed into bed. Day off here tomorrow- so looking forward to a sleep in.

Absolutely GLORIOUS weather today, David in t-shirt and me down to only two layers of Merino.
Based in Reine today which gave us a chance to do some washing and some in depth exploring of the local area. So nice to ride without the heavy panniers on the back!

Paused at the top of the hill to photograph the beautiful village of Reine in full sun before setting off on the relatively short 13 km pedal (push) to A. Lots of cute and well populated coastal villages along the way.

Visited the Stockfish museum, which was the most informative explanation of the Norwegian cod fishing industry we have seen- made us realise why there is so much hype about protecting the industry and why the Swedes kept telling us how wealthy the Nowegians are- the average Norwegian fisherman earns $30 per kilo for dried cod- they are raking it in.

Basked lazily in the sun on the pier at A for a couple of hours until David began to worry that if we didn’t head back he may never get me moving- legs a bit creaky after the long break but eventually got going.

Tomorrow our ride ends. Short pedal to the quay and then a four hour ferry ride to Bodo where we spend a couple of days before catching the train to Oslo. Would love to keep riding south from here- feels like we’ve only just scratched the surface.

So hard to leave our gorgeous little cottage today- we would have loved an extra day here. Fabulous breakfast buffet fortified us for the ride ahead (and then some). We set off feeling pretty nostalgic as today was our last long ride for the tour- so we were determined to leave no village unexplored. The weather smiled on us (cold but no rain).

As expected the ride out of Nusfjord was pretty much straight uphill, however there was an upside: 1) sensational views, and 2) we realised how climbing-fit we have become over the last few weeks.
Today’s journey was the most beautiful scenery for the trip so far – I know I say that nearly every day, but just when you think it can’t get more beautiful it does.

First stop was Flankstad, the home of the second oldest church in Lofoten, famous for its Russian influenced dome (related to something about stockfish trade). Also the site where I scared the begeebus out of the local priest ( but that story will have to be told offline).

Several km down the line in Ramberg we stopped in the small galleri of a local metal sculptor and ceramicist- his gallery was really a studio and workshop in his back garden with a beautiful rambling garden overlooking the beach – amazing to think the garden had been under snow just a few weeks ago. He was an eccentric old bird who not only told us his life story (including how he met the love of his life) but also personally walked us through the gallery and explained the meaning of every piece of work and how he had constructed it. Left there almost an hour later with no purchases but a warm fuzzy feeling that we had made his day- he certainly made ours.

Definitely stockfish territory today, all along the way we passed racks and racks of severed cod-fish heads and drying carcasses with that anchovy like smell we have become familiar with. A stunning if gruesome sight.

Lunch stop was in a cute (very Norwegian) little picnic ground in Fredvang – what we thought was going to be a small detour but ended up being over two enormous bridges.

Two long tunnels today- one (2km) we managed to avoid by taking an alternate route, but no such luck with the second one (a hefty 1.6km). Luckily it was downhill so we managed to move through it very fast- the noise is the hardest part of the tunnels, especially with heavy traffic.

Final stop in the (slightly kitsch) historical village of Sund- lets just say the 240NOK entry fee was our donation to the local Norwegian tourist trade-cake was good and well earned with all the hills we climbed today.

Arrived in Reine round 5.30 pretty tired- while the ride had been shorter than many (56km) it was definitely the most challenging climbing of any day so far. We have two nights in Reine- haven’t had a chance to explore yet but Lonely Planet tells us there is lots to do here, so will get up and out early.

No riding today- it was all about the sea and the scenery. Loaded our bike, bags and ourselves onto the bike ferry for the 45 minute ride to Nusfjord. Our bike didn’t fit on the gang plank (of course it didn’t), so I held my breath while David and two musclebound Norwegian ferry operators lifted it up and over without dropping it or the fully loaded panniers into the drink.

Nutsfjord is one of the oldest and best preserved cod fishing hamlets in Norway. Set around a tiny cove, the rock faces are lined with original fishing cabins (of which we are occupying one) which protrude over the water. Our cabin is to die for – large with original exposed rafters and cute little rooms each opening out onto a beautiful view- so quiet we can hear our blood circulating.

The village itself is surrounded by forest with snow capped rock faces looming. Not sure which way we cycle out tomorrow but rest assured it will be up hill- so glad to have a rest today.

Set off from Hov early with a long ride ahead. Threatening to rain we prepared for an arduous ride, however the damp cleared and only emerged occasionally throughout the day as did the head wind. Luckily the crowds from the Baltic Circle tour were sleeping in (recovering?), so traffic was light on the road out.

We largely hugged the coast today, island hopping (via bridge) between two islands. Very different terrain to the other islands- expanses of marsh land and some pasture – mostly occupied by sheep and horses. The vegetation was also much more ‘forest like’ with woods of fir trees – where vegetation on other islands has been mostly birches.

Traversed a couple so small, beautiful fjords (with challenging hills) -with camping grounds beginning to fill up- as the summer holidays start today.
Rain set in for a while round mid afternoon, so we hunkered down in a cafe at one of the camping grounds for an hour or so until it passed – drinking coffee and eating cake (as you can when you know you are going to be riding it off).

Last 15km was in beautiful sunshine, so we stripped off our layers and basked in it. The fjords transform when the sun shines on them.

Arrived at Ballstad late afternoon. Accommodation is in tiny little fisherman’s cabins right over the water. Very cute- feels like sleeping in a dolls house. So excited to se we have our very own bathroom!! Aaaaaahhh- it’s the little things in life……..

Left Hemmingavaer round 9.30 backtracking for the first 10 km – which was actually great because the weather was nice and we were able to enjoy the scenery that we misse din the rain yesterday. Lots to see along the way today.
First stop was a reflective sculpture by an American artist- a big reflective glass curve which mirrors the fjord and mountains behind- we thought it was fabulous, but the locals call it ‘the shower cabinet’.

Next stop was the old church at Gimsoysand- right on the banks of the fjord and guide to the ground to stop the strong winds from blowing it into the water. These little graveyards are very typical if this area with each village having their own small cemetery.

From there it was full steam ahead to Hov..
Traffic became heavy with literally scores of rally cars passing us on the road. We found out later they were from the Baltic Ciicle Midsummer Madness Tour- a group of about 300 petrol heads who drive round Germany, the Baltic and across Norway every summer- and they were all staying in the camping ground opposite our B&B. Very well behaved (or the double glazing in our room did the trick)- although I had a real treat when David and I walked on the beach and they were swimming butt naked ( in 11 degree water- I might add)

Hov is a little coastal town whose claim to fame is having the most furtherest north golf course in the world – where you can play golf under the midnight sun. We had a room in a little farmhouse on a local horse farm- they breed Icelandic horses- very cute, stocky and very rough coated little horses (ponies really).

Met our fellow travellers at dinner- there are 11 others biking the same route as us., so no doubt will get to know them better along the way.