Coward Springs is the sort of place you could stop for days – but with work barking at the door we stuck to the plan and headed west. Again amazing landscapes on every crest.
Our first stop was at Strangeways Springs – on Arabana land and named after Henry Strangeways in the late 1850s who established the first Adelaide to Darwin telegraph. This small village (now in ruins) sits on top of a mound spring – with beautiful wildflowers among the old stone faces.

We stopped for lunch at the William Creek Hotel- yet another quirky outback pub in a tiny town of little else serving all things meat and chips. David had the veggie burger, clearly not their mainstream fare.

After a quick re-fuel (most expensive yet at $3.17/l ) we moved on keen to do a side trip to the Painted Desert (90km off the track just before Oodnadatta). 

The Painted Desert is a series of rocky outcrops rising out of dead flat plains. Not sure of trhir geology but the layers of different rock/sandstone/salt etc give them the appearance of a water colour. Absolutely mesmerising and should be up there on everyone’s bucket list. Like Ularu the rocks have different appearances with different light. We did a sunset viewing and had intended to go back for sunrise, but after a close encounter of the cattle kind (thankfully only enough for an adrenaline rush) we were put off driving back in the dark.

Spent the night on  Arckaringa Station- we had the whole place to ourselves. Gorgeous night around the camp fire (probably our latest bed time yet at 10pm!).

Cows were a bit curious as to who had invaded their territory and came to check us out- nothing like having a massive bovine snuffling through your rubbish bags and sniffing at your underwear on the line!

Arrived in Oodnadatta round lunchtime. Everything is pink down to the petrol bowsers and rubbish bins. We are now set up in the Pink Roadhouse tucking into a huge feast – coffee is great