St Helens to Bicheno in gale force winds!

With over 80k to cover today we set off (relatively) early- 8am ish.

Woke up to sunshine
Hard to leave our beautiful little cottage

We hugged the coast all the way down. For the first 40k the wind was behind us and riding was easy. First stop was at a shipping container transformed into a coffee spot- full of both locals and tourists- and we soon saw why- best coffee we’ve had so far.

Sunshine & coffee- our two favourite things

After reading about their legendary berry pancakes David was very sad to see this

Reached our halfway point at 11.30 which as fortune would have it was the Iron House Brewery. Fabulous views and a great place to rest our bones for an hour- mind you, had we known what was to come we might not have lingered quite so long.

View from our lunch spot

The east coast is certainly spectacular- gorgeous pristine beaches one after the other- but the winds were punishing. By mid afternoon they had reached the threatened 45-55km/hr, which was great when they were behind us, hard work when they hit us front on, and downright scary when they hit us from the side. A few times we had to get off and walk as the wind blew us into the gravel shoulder.

With 10km to go we gave in to exhaustion for a while- rode down to the beach, devoured our bread rolls and hedgehog slice and let the sun and food work its magic before setting off again.

We arrived in Bicheno round 5 very windswept but nothing a shower, pizza and beer couldn’t fix.

Our little home for the night…

…. with the million dollar view

Off to Coles Bay tomorrow- a much shorter ride thank goodness.

Last day in St Helens

Well, had our last day of our mini break here in St Helens today. After a day of absolute slothfulness yesterday- eating- sleeping- reading – we got back on the bike for a short ride the ‘other, way around the coast towards St Helens Point.

We climbed and flew down some big hills in this short ride- note the maximum speed!

We hugged the coastline the whole way and with the superb weather we were treated to magnificent views- this place is just glorious.

We literally followed a path on the water’s edge
More of these amazing lichen covered rocks

On the way home stopped on the wharf for a fisherman’s basket – and a lovely couple from the Gold Coast (who spent the day passing is on the road) shared their oysters with me. As for Benny- when in Rome…..eat chicken burger of course!

Now starting the task of re-packing the panniers ready for an early start tomorrow while listening to ‘For the Term of His Natural Life’ on audio book in prep for our visit to Port Arthur.

A big 83km ride to Bicheno tomorrow.

St Helens


Tim arrived at 9 as promised to pick us up to transfer to St Helens. We felt a bit sheepish skipping this leg until we drove it- after which our sheepishness turned to relief. The road was very narrow with lots of blind curves- we would have been sitting ducks! The views were spectacular though.

Tim has our girl tucked up safely for the ride

Gorgeous views as we wound through the pass

Took just over an hour to get down to StHelens and find our little cottage (home for the next three days). After some bike maintenance (aka cleaning the grit out of everything), determined not to be total slugs, we set off for an afternoon ride to Binalong Bay.

A very hilly ride (is there any other type down here?) but we’ll worth it. On top of that the weather was perfect (at last) warm and sunny with the most amazing cloud formations.

A short coastal walk….



….to get to the most pristine beach
Skeleton Bay

Easy to see why it’s called the Bay of Fires

And the best thing of all is man cooked dinner!

Leg 3: Bridport to Derby


We left the beautiful Bridport at 9 this morning in a bracing 1.5 degrees (wearing all our clothes on top of each other) but with a promise of sunshine poking through the clouds.

We had highlighted maps in hand ( yes paper maps do still exist) as mobile reception will be scant from here on in. 

Earlier in the morning, when buying said map, David had got chatting to a guy who was in charge of road maintenance who plotted out a route for us guaranteed to minimise trucks and maximise sealed roads- so we set off confident of an easier day ahead.

The first 40k was an absolute dream- tail winds all the way, gentle undulations and no rain or hail!

Our first stretch & snack spot

Then we rode through Mt Horror National Park (I kid you not). While true to promise there were no trucks- the hills were the most challenging yet. We quickly became thankful for the steady albeit light rain as it kept us cool. We knew we were working hard when we could literally see the steam coming off our bodies! We’re definitely developing legs of steel.

Fuel stop before Mt Horror

We ended up biking AND hiking up the 14km of gravel roads in the national park before reaching tarmac again. 

The final part of our ride was through the most lush farmlands I’ve ever seen- David though it resembled the Scottish highlands, with very round, gleaming cattle, who I’m convinced must have two legs shorter than the others so the can keep balanced on the steep hills.

“What on earth are those crazy humans doing?”
Had to walk up this bad boy

About 10k out of Derby we came across the tiny  Winnaleah Pub – a quintessential little country pub with a raging log fire. The publican was a delight and the couple of locals who were in the bar mapped out a shortcut to Derby for us – and then came out to see us off on the tandem.

Arrived in Derby round 5 absolutely thrilled to see our cottage had an open fire.  Derby is an early 1800s town founded for tin mining and has many of the original cottages standing. In 2015 it became home to a mountain biking culture and now is full of what look like wealthy, near middle-aged mountain bikers (the MTB equivalent of MAMILs) all of whom seemed to be at the pub tonight.

The beautiful Brothers Town Cottage- our home for the night
Even our bike had a special place
And David’s job is…to keep the fire going

After hearing so many cautions about safety on the road from Derby to St Helens (a pass similar to the black spur shared by cars/trucks/bikes alike) we have decided to take the easy/safe approach and have booked a shuttle over the pass.  It will also be quite nice to give the legs a rest from the hills for a day 😀

Leg 2:Low Head to Bridport

Note the elevation gain!


After listening to rain on the roof all night we woke up to sunshine- so a quick bowl of porridge and we were off.

All packed ready to go

The lady at the caravan park suggested an alternate ‘back roads’ route which meant the first 40k were off the main roads. Lovely ride mostly through farmland with some glimpses of the coast- saw only 8 cars, 2 trucks, one caravan and 4 kookaburras for the first 3 hours.

Look- no trucks!

Stopped for a hearty (and much needed) lunch at a tiny General Store in Pipers Point where we met Rosanne- a Kiwi who had left her job and is cycling around Australia for the next 18 months- she was also on day 2. Very envious- definitely buying a lottery ticket this week!

Once back on the main road surfaces were easier to ride but traffic increased. We’ve now got savvy to the log trucks- we hear them before we see them and pull off the road standing until they pass- their back draught is strong and this stops us wobbling.

The elements set in with about 25k to go- 5 hail storms swept through- again pulled over and huddle it out – no shelter in sight.

Hail stones the size of blueberries- nothing to do but hunker down
The hail didn’t put this little guy off searching for dinner

Arrived at our cabin in Bridport round 4.30 very wet and a little bit frozen, but nothing a hot shower couldn’t fix.

Have cranked the hearing up to 30, laid out all our wet clothes and come to the pub for dinner- hoping our shoes will be slightly drier tomorrow.

The best thing about riding is….
Storm clouds still hovering over Bridport- hope they’ve passed by tomorrow

Leg 1: Launceston to Low Head

Distance travelled: 65.7km
Sore butts: 2
Aussie wildlife sightings: 5.
Live Aussie wildlife sightings: 0

Set off a bit later than we usually would to avoid the peak hour traffic (or that’s our excuse). Headed north following the West Bank of the Tamar Rover. There aren’t a lot of side roads here and those that there are ,are generally very steep as they Veer away from the river- so we stuck to the main road.

The promise of a safe journey

About 10k out of the city we did manage to follow a tiny side road that wound its way along the waters edge through tiny little fishing towns. Absolutely beautiful!

Weather wasn’t kind to our photographer
Lots of wineries too- but we resisted the temptation

We certainly experienced all the elements today- being close to the river big squalls rolled in regularly bringing hail, rain and huge winds- then they’d clear as quickly as they started leaving bright sunshine. Our wet weather gear certainly got a work out, as did we.

While traffic heading out of Launceston was heavy but the highway had a good shoulder and people gave us plenty of room HOWEVER this changed as we got further north and began to share the roads with the logging truckS- who were merciless. Something we’ll need to get used to over the next couple of days as we head through the mountains.

INot much room to move on these roads- especially when sharing them with trucks!
Opted to slug it out for 10k on this gravel road when we saw the sign ‘trucks banned!

Stopped in at Georgetown for a bowl of salty hot chips (nothing like salt, fat and carbs after a long rode) and the makings of an omelette before heading up the road to our caravan park. Now nestled into our cabin with heating cranked up hoping David feels the need to cook dinner before I do- but from the sound off the snores- unlikely!

Launceston & Cataract Gorge

Tyres fixed – ✔️

Lost mobile phone retrieved from car hire company- ✔️ (And not N’s)

Successful practice ride – ✔️

Did what we thought would be a cruisy 13km ride along the banks of the Tamar toward Cataract George. It soon became apparent that the biggest challenge we will face on this trip will be the wind. We managed to cop a head wind on the way there and back. So arrived home looking like we had had face lifts – gave true meaning to Mum’s old saying “if the wind changes your face will be stuck like that”.

The Gorge itself was gorgeous- we did the 7km walk around the edge – too narrow to rode so poor old David had to push the bike – unfortunately I couldn’t convince home to push it with me on it.

Arrived home pretty pooped wondering how we’ll make the 60 km tomorrow with a headwind.
currently in a pub waiting for my Atlantic Salmon and hoping We’ll have the energy to climb the (enormous) hill back to our B&B.

This guy put on a show for is
Who needs a bike lock when you have one of these watching over your bike!

Melbourne to Launceston

Arrived at the airport early to allow for delays due to the normal bikes in bags confusion. Forty-five minutes and $90 excess baggage later  we watched with trepidation while our green machine slid off into the oversized luggage abyss, hoping like heck she’d come off safe and sound at the other end….. and she did!

Smallest plane I’ve been on in a while

With 5 hours to kill before we could check into our B&B, we decided to rent a car and do some exploring. Set off along the Great Western Tiers Touring Road – beautiful little towns full of  old cottages, cafes and craft galleries. Pored over the realestate windows for that perfect renovators delight but sadly no luck!

Yummy ploughman’s lunch- starting off the way we mean to continue!

Arrived at our gorgeous cottage in Launceston late arvo – three hours later (and much groaning) we had the bike set up…..almost…

Cottage transformed into bike shed

Note to selves- if you’re going to buy a new super dooper pump, test it out before you absolutely need it! We now have great bike with two flat tyres! Never fear- have located a bike shop and will be on their doorstep first thing. 

Preparing for the Tassie adventure

Two years, three knee surgeries (for the old boy) and lots of hard work and training, and at last we have our next cycling adventure on its way.
On Cup Day we head south for 3 weeks cycling the east coast of Tasmania.

For the first time we’re totally self directed- carrying everything with us (no baggage transfers). After much cursing and paring back we’ve managed a respectable 26 kg of on-bike carry on – which will gradually reduce as we apply the toothpaste and butt cream (not to the same place!) we have squeezed everything into 4 pannier bags, a frame bag and a handlebar bag. David’s clothes came in at 4.1kg- 200g less than mine. The rest is tools, first aid & electronics.

Before
After
And then…..

As usual we’ll blog as we go internet coverage pending- just 8 sleeps to go!

Summing up from Nairobi airport

Sitting in cafe at Nairobi airport doing the inevitable ‘summing up’ of the holiday.

Favourite bits (Caity): close encounter with lion; sleeping under canvas in the Serengetti bush camp and of course her romantic encounter with the talk guy (aka Gerry the giraffe).

Naomi – hmmm travelling with my girl and yes, still the hippos.

What we have learned along the way (thanks to our fabulous guides):

  1. The African ecosystem is like a car engine- each part is important- you add anything or take anything away and it stops working.
  2. Humans are the riskiest predators
  3. How to survive on the wild (see below)

How to survive encounters with wild animals:

Lion: stare him in the eyes, don’t blink and look fierce – and don’t run (unless you can run faster than whoever you are with)

Buffalo: lie oh the ground- they can’t get their horns down that low and won’t stomp on anything they don’t recognise

Hippo: dive under water- they can’t open their mouths under water (hmmm how long can we hold our breath when submerged in hippo poo?)

Cheetah: stay calm and quiet and enjoy the experience and don’t make eye contact – if you’re calm and not a threat they won’t harm you

Crocodile: if he has hold of you poke him in the eyes or ears – don’t bother calling for help no one will come.

Leopard: stay calm and quiet and pretend they’re not there. If you make eye contact you’ve got about 45 seconds to reflect (although I’m sure that could feel like hours).

All in all- best survival skill is to say in the truck!

Would we come back? ABSOLUTELY but we’ll bring the whole family next time – so start saving folks!

See you on the other side!